Oil pressure?HUMMMMMMMMMMM

[swheels]

Ok iv'e been have this issue with getting enough oil to the valvetrain.I was gonna run a electric oil pump but when i went back to the store to purchase it.Ofcourse it was gone so i got this idea to use the pressure from the engine to help pump the oil.By tapping and running a line from the valve cover.Then running a line to the bolt that holds the rod that supposedly pumps the oil to the top of the motor.So i'm basically doing a bypass surgery.Well i'm thinking that the worst thing that could go wrong is the pressure from the line could increase the pressure in the crankcase and blow a seal.LOL but if it works think it could be a great way to increase the amount of oil to the valvetrain.I will post new pics once the whole ordeal is finished.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

so why are you not getting enough oil to the top?
and how do you know?
gpx motors dont have that piece so i dont know
but they have ho oil pumps oem
would a oil cooler do the trick just retaining a oil amount?

[swheels]

so why are you not getting enough oil to the top?
and how do you know?
gpx motors dont have that piece so i dont know
but they have ho oil pumps oem
would a oil cooler do the trick just retaining a oil amount?All the chinese styled honda based motors have them.Its that forbidden bolt that if you take it out.You better not try and turn the motor over it could jump the timing or the timing chain could come off.But i suspect that the little sprocket that helps keep tension on the timing chain.Somehow got warn out that little sprocket is mounted on a arm.That acts like a lever that goes up and down which pushes on the rod to send the oil to the head.The oil cooler depending how you run the lines will circulate the oil.But if your running the cooler lines from the top of the head then.(with my situation)not much oil.They way i check is by taking off the cap the head studs run through.Then i look at the rocker arms then touch them.You should get oil on your finger now matter what part of the rockerarms you touch.Usually its the top one i go for.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

so that bolt by the oil drain that is angled is a oil outlet?
ive never taken it out so i dont know
so a banjo fitting to the top huh
id think your motor would fry with no upper oil
mine gets toasty

[The Nutty Professor]

Swheels have you thought about taking the topend off your 127cc and putting it on your old bottomend? It seems your old cases gave you less problems and your new bottom is tearing up the top? Just a thought.twocents

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

you cant put a lifan head on a 110 glenn, they are not interchangeable
maybe thats why the gpx is more popular

[redryderaus]

Anything you can do to improve oil flow to the top end will be beneficial, especially at high rpm. Even better if you can use your extra line to create an oil mist inside the head/valvetrain.

These engines aren't the only ones to suffer from lack of top end lubrication. The early 80's Honda V4 Interceptors (I had a 1000cc version)had a similar problem compounded by poor camshaft hardening which combined could chew the cams up in less than 20,000km's! There were several upgrades like swheels is proposing to increase oil flow to the top end. The other thing was to use a top quality synthetic oil. I've been using Shell Helix Ultra in my VTR1000 and it hasn't caused any clutch problems so I'll probably go with that in the 125cc motor.

Cheers,

red

[swanni06]

Anything you can do to improve oil flow to the top end will be beneficial, especially at high rpm. Even better if you can use your extra line to create an oil mist inside the head/valvetrain.

These engines aren't the only ones to suffer from lack of top end lubrication. The early 80's Honda V4 Interceptors (I had a 1000cc version)had a similar problem compounded by poor camshaft hardening which combined could chew the cams up in less than 20,000km's! There were several upgrades like swheels is proposing to increase oil flow to the top end. The other thing was to use a top quality synthetic oil. I've been using Shell Helix Ultra in my VTR1000 and it hasn't caused any clutch problems so I'll probably go with that in the 125cc motor.

Cheers,

redSorry to be off topic but I have a chance to get a 84 vf1000f? interceptor for like 200 bucks,39000 km's but it has a burn up topend or cams(the guy that has it said it needed a new topend and cams??),something like that.Is it worth it or to costly to repair?

[The Nutty Professor]

Maybe a modified injector nozzle to spray the mist? Just a thoughtdunno. I did not realize the topends were that different. Oh well that what I get for not having one in the garage.

[redryderaus]

Sorry to be off topic but I have a chance to get a 84 vf1000f? interceptor for like 200 bucks,39000 km's but it has a burn up topend or cams(the guy that has it said it needed a new topend and cams??),something like that.Is it worth it or to costly to repair?

Exact same model I had. Depending on how badly damaged the cams are, you may be able to get them reground and hardened. You'd also need to have the rocker arms reground. For $200 I'd go for it. Even if it cost you $1000 to rebuild the top end you'd still end up with a nice torquey V4 sports-tourer cheap. Apart from the top end problems those V4 engines are bulletproof. And they sound glorious with a decent exhaust. I had a Hindle 4-1 on mine and I used to wind the revs up just cos I loved the note. rock2

Nutty: I was thinking along the same lines with the injector. As long as the oil pump could produce enough pressure it could work, and the mist would supply an even coverage of oil to the cam/rockers/etc.

Cheers,

red

[swheels]

Anything you can do to improve oil flow to the top end will be beneficial, especially at high rpm. Even better if you can use your extra line to create an oil mist inside the head/valvetrain.

These engines aren't the only ones to suffer from lack of top end lubrication. The early 80's Honda V4 Interceptors (I had a 1000cc version)had a similar problem compounded by poor camshaft hardening which combined could chew the cams up in less than 20,000km's! There were several upgrades like swheels is proposing to increase oil flow to the top end. The other thing was to use a top quality synthetic oil. I've been using Shell Helix Ultra in my VTR1000 and it hasn't caused any clutch problems so I'll probably go with that in the 125cc motor.

Cheers,

redThats what i was hoping for Red.Originaly i was going to use one of the oil cooler lines.And hope that it push the oil up through to the top valve cover.Being how that valve line acts as a breather.I was thinking the oil would just get blown back or not be able to move up the line.So that's when i figured i'd try and run it the other way.The electric pump i was gonna use was a 12v mini inline fuel pump capable of pumping fuel up to 6psi's.I wasn't sure how it was gonna work trying to pump the oil.
I don't think they sell the oil at my local motorcycle shop.But i'll be on the hunt for it.
Here's a few pics of the pumps and there pretty small and compact.And cheap in price 22.00 to 40.00 bucs

[redryderaus]

The Helix Ultra is car engine oil, so an auto-parts store might have it. I know some people have had clutch issues with car oil, but personally I have run both Mobil1 and Helix Ultra in both race and road bikes for many years with no problems.

Cheers,

red

[swheels]

The Helix Ultra is car engine oil, so an auto-parts store might have it. I know some people have had clutch issues with car oil, but personally I have run both Mobil1 and Helix Ultra in both race and road bikes for many years with no problems.

Cheers,

redThats good to know because i ran some suzuki motorcycle oil and when i drain it.It looked like i haven't changed the oil in months.Oh the sludge build up.wtf

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

in your lifan motor? the new one?

[Holeshotz Performance]

Seems like a great idea to me, most Japaneses motors with a good displacement amount have oil lines set up similar to that but i think what you really need to do is shoot for that gpx 125 i got laying around rock2

[swheels]

in your lifan motor? the new one?LOL yep.I'm gonna post pics tomorrow of the sludge.

Seems like a great idea to me, most Japaneses motors with a good displacement amount have oil lines set up similar to that but i think what you really need to do is shoot for that gpx 125 i got laying around rock2I'm haveing trouble deciding between the bigbore kit vs the 125cc motor you got.I need to find out who's going to run in what class at V.R.I. so i can run with them.I'd hate to show up running a 146cc.Only to find out theres not enough 150cc.And they put with the 125cc.I couldn't call that a win.(If i was to win)But if theres a good amount in the 125cc's then i'll be happy also.
But i took the bike for a quick run and the motor felt like a beast sofar.LOL

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

im goin in the 125 class
it should be popular, unlimited motor mods yay

[redryderaus]

Thats good to know because i ran some suzuki motorcycle oil and when i drain it.It looked like i haven't changed the oil in months.Oh the sludge build up.wtf

Remember these engines don't have an oil filter. Just a screen that is really just there to stop any large lumps of crap from blocking oil passages. So the oil will get dirty fairly quickly. Still, you shouldn't get a lot of buildup in a short time. It could be an indicator of combustion gases blowing past the rings. How much running has the engine had? If it's still fairly new then the rings may not have bedded in properly as yet.

Something that may be useful would be to find a way to fit an oil filter. This will keep the oil clean for much longer which would help with engine wear.

Cheers,

red

[swheels]

Remember these engines don't have an oil filter. Just a screen that is really just there to stop any large lumps of crap from blocking oil passages. So the oil will get dirty fairly quickly. Still, you shouldn't get a lot of buildup in a short time. It could be an indicator of combustion gases blowing past the rings. How much running has the engine had? If it's still fairly new then the rings may not have bedded in properly as yet.

Something that may be useful would be to find a way to fit an oil filter. This will keep the oil clean for much longer which would help with engine wear.

Cheers,

redYour 100% right Red!
I wasn't to sure about my single bypass so i performed another and it works great!Which spawned more ideas.So when i setup the oil cooler i'm gonna route it to the head Then back to the engine block.This should decrease the engine temp quite a bit.Instead of the oil just going from the crankcase to cooler back to crankcase.Hey i've seen this fuel filter thats billet with cooling fins and about 7inch long and maybe 4inches in dia.I was thinking about tapping into one of the lines and trying it out as an oil filter?It should work right? In the pic theres a black hose clamp over the black tape.I used the electric tape to keep the braided lines from fraying when i cut them.

[55IsABigLie]

so that bolt by the oil drain that is angled is a oil outlet?
ive never taken it out so i dont know
so a banjo fitting to the top huh
id think your motor would fry with no upper oil
mine gets toasty

Yeah- X18PocketRocket and I had no idea what in the &^%&^%&^
that extra "plug" was next to the oil. We guessed right that the bigger one
was oil but had no idea- i had started to try to get at the other one.

After we notched the bodies (learning on my X18- lol) to get access to the
oil better I started getting adventurous...hee hee hunter1

[55IsABigLie]

so why are you not getting enough oil to the top?
and how do you know?
gpx motors dont have that piece so i dont know
but they have ho oil pumps oem
would a oil cooler do the trick just retaining a oil amount?

Hey Blitz- Do you know the NGK part number for the iridium plug that fits the stock "110cc" engine? Apparently theres a bunch of stuff (thrust, threads etc)
that has to be right- its not just any plug..?

[swheels]

I took the for short run up and down the driveway.MAN what i huge difference you crack the throttle from a slow roll front wheel right off the ground.Even in second gear from a slow roll.You know i gotta do my tt run later today.

[Holeshotz Performance]

Hey Blitz- Do you know the NGK part number for the iridium plug that fits the stock "110cc" engine? Apparently theres a bunch of stuff (thrust, threads etc)
that has to be right- its not just any plug..?

I think its CR7HIX but i'm not 100% sure.

[redryderaus]

Your 100% right Red!
I wasn't to sure about my single bypass so i performed another and it works great!Which spawned more ideas.So when i setup the oil cooler i'm gonna route it to the head Then back to the engine block.This should decrease the engine temp quite a bit.Instead of the oil just going from the crankcase to cooler back to crankcase.Hey i've seen this fuel filter thats billet with cooling fins and about 7inch long and maybe 4inches in dia.I was thinking about tapping into one of the lines and trying it out as an oil filter?It should work right? In the pic theres a black hose clamp over the black tape.I used the electric tape to keep the braided lines from fraying when i cut them.

Yeah, putting a filter inline with one of the oil cooler lines was what I had in mind. Just a matter of finding the right filter. I'm not sure if you could use a fuel filter for oil. The pores in the filter may be too small for the relatively thick oil to pass through so it could restrict oil flow.

I wonder if there's a 1:1 bike that uses an inline oil filter. Maybe one of the bikes that uses a dry sump?? dunno

Cheers,

red

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

Hey Blitz- Do you know the NGK part number for the iridium plug that fits the stock "110cc" engine? Apparently theres a bunch of stuff (thrust, threads etc)
that has to be right- its not just any plug..?
its CR7 HIX, hole was right
its one bad plug, the first one i had i broke trying to gap it
i didnt know you dont gap those plugs
so the center prong broke in half leaving only a small bit of electrode
i beat the top C over till it was close to the prong, and it rode great till i got a new one

[55IsABigLie]

its CR7 HIX, hole was right
its one bad plug, the first one i had i broke trying to gap it
i didnt know you dont gap those plugs
so the center prong broke in half leaving only a small bit of electrode
i beat the top C over till it was close to the prong, and it rode great till i got a new one

Heheh--Thanks guys- you know we're gonna be ordering that up. stirthepot

[xxlarge420]

thanks for putting up the NGK iridium plug #. and if anyone finds an inline oil filter please let me know. i would love to put one on my oil cooler line, but it has to be an oil filter so it doesnt slow down the flow of oil. it cant be a fuel filter. the pore size of a fuel filter would definitely be way to small. but it is a great idea. i wish i wouldve thought of it.

[schofell84]

why not a remote one from a car? all you have to do is find the proper fittings to make it happen. it would also increase the volume of oil and therefore help keeping it cooler. and you can mount it wherever you want.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

all car oil filters are too big i think
only the very smallest might work but i doubt it
carquest: b4622
youd hafta get the attachment point from the junkyard

[swheels]

Now that i think about it.Oil filters from the rider lawn mowers there small enough.Thanks for the idea schofell84

[schofell84]

why are the car ones too big? attachment point?

huh?!

[xxlarge420]

i also think that ones from rider lawn mowers or ones from large commercial mowers or commercial engines might work. they make all sorts of different sizes and kinds for the many different makes and models of this type of equipment. i think i might have to go to the lawn mower store and check things out.

[The Nutty Professor]

Whatever you find out XXL don't forget to post it.