The Doctor's X-15

[FS211]

Alright deadhorse ,

After seeing a lot of other peoples builds, doing a lot of watching and posting on the forum i will finally now start my first build.
don't expect too much from me, as i am still a rook


I Plan to:

- Paint
- Tires
- Suspension
- Brakes
- Miscellaneous (clip on's, throttle, etc..)
- Bigger Engine
- Exhaust

^somewhat in that order^

Heres what im working with
(picture of the day i got it and a picture of how it looks tonight)

[The Nutty Professor]

Perfect start!

[K-Pac]

Wow this is going to be an awesome build!

[Niusiic[latvia]]

Ohh. Can't wait:yup:

[FS211]

-Cut off :grind: battery tray, kick stand, and chain guard.
-Got second front fork with bracket for the dual front brakes
-Primed and painted the frame, swingarm, and forks

[briansX19haulsass]

what size engine you dreaming off?

[FS211]

what size engine you dreaming off?

I've been looking at this Click Here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200CC-LIFAN-5-SPD-ENGINE-MOTOR-MOTORCYCLE-DIRT-BIKE-ATV_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7 c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1171Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZ p3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5ad1ee9e24QQitemZ390069 132836QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQQsale notsupported#ht_5152wt_1186)

but basically i hope to put something 140cc or bigger :dunno:

[rene13]

I've been looking at this Click Here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200CC-LIFAN-5-SPD-ENGINE-MOTOR-MOTORCYCLE-DIRT-BIKE-ATV_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7 c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1171Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZ p3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5ad1ee9e24QQitemZ390069 132836QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQQsale notsupported#ht_5152wt_1186)

but basically i hope to put something 140cc or bigger :dunno:

(200cc) A guy in houston put a motor like that in a X-18, you will would have to box in the swingarm and custom fab some heavy duty axle adjuster for the torque.:yup: It will work. THe guy that did the 18 was on PBP

[briansX19haulsass]

but dude if you get like a gpx 150cc you wont have to do any of that and get the same hp level or higher than that you know

[FS211]

but dude if you get like a gpx 150cc you wont have to do any of that and get the same hp level or higher than that you know

I've been thinking of the GPX 150, the 200cc 5 speed is nice too tho.

-Clear coated the frame this morning, could still use a couple more coats.
-Threw on some posh clip ons to see the look.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

that 200cc motor says it only has 12 hp? and 14 tq
looks to me like the only advantage it has is the 5th gear
the 18s swingarm is rather strong for just being tubed, its the 15/19 that need boxing

[FS211]

that 200cc motor says it only has 12 hp? and 14 tq
looks to me like the only advantage it has is the 5th gear
the 18s swingarm is rather strong for just being tubed, its the 15/19 that need boxing
true, havent really done too much research into finding the right engine yet. good thing you pointed that out to me.

update:
Sanding the plastics

[FiveStarSky]

i have a dirtbike with that motor in it, its alright, the main thing is you would need to make a custom front sprocket, or you can get a 150 vertical motor (smaller size) with the 5 speed, but if doing that, you could probably just make a horizontal motor just as good. my dirt bike tops around 70, but i'm sure tossing it in the much lighter frame and high-end gearing can make that thing fly.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

its all in the gearing a 3sp can do 100, just like a 4sp or a 5sp
what you really want to consider is the mods required to make the motor fit the bike, if the chain will line up, and if there is any upgrades to the motor itself
for me that lifan just doesnt have that many advantages, its a 5sd, thats all that stands out for me
if i was gonna go ballz out id put this in http://www.karting1.co.uk/wankel-kart-test.htm
its like 300cc and 48hp

[Niusiic[latvia]]

If you want that 200cc then why did you paint your frame already? And yes, 150 would be way better!

[FS211]

;40219']If you want that 200cc then why did you paint your frame already? And yes, 150 would be way better!

I don't really understand what you mean, regardless of the engine i was planning on painting the frame first.

-undercoating for the fairings
-upper fairings taped up for rubber plasti-dip undercoat

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

think he means that since the 200cc motor wont bolt right up, you will need to weld on some mounts for it
the undercoating is nice, it helps with vibration and adds strength

[FS211]

think he means that since the 200cc motor wont bolt right up, you will need to weld on some mounts for it
the undercoating is nice, it helps with vibration and adds strength

oh, sorry i couldnt understand b/c i am dumb and incoherent lol

good looks Niusiic,
-I'll probably end up going with a 140-160cc after blitz pointed out the lack of power in that 200.
-Even though i am more interested in setting up and tuning the suspension/handling before I make anymore advancements for more speed.

[Niusiic[latvia]]

oh, sorry i couldnt understand b/c i am dumb and incoherent lol

good looks Niusiic,
-I'll probably end up going with a 140-160cc after blitz pointed out the lack of power in that 200.
-Even though i am more interested in setting up and tuning the suspension/handling before I make anymore advancements for more speed.

Nah, I'm bit tired so I'm probably writing bit incorrect as I always write :D
And yes, good that you're thinking about suspension and handling before power!thumbsup2

[FS211]

- Got some Michelin S1's to cruise around on, I hopefully plan to get a 2nd set of rims thumbsup2 and have racing slicks already mounted.
-haven't decided what color rimsthinking_smilie, so i coated the back one black to see how i like it, if anything I can repaint it easily.
-Slapped the stock rims/tires on the bike for a mockup of everything.
-Finished undercoating the fairings/fenders, i did not do the tail section yet.
-I started Painting the fairings (I'll get pics later tonight once it dries and I lace it with some clear coat lol)

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

wow old stang 65-66?

[FS211]

wow old stang 65-66?

basically, its a '63 small block 289 mustang, 100% original

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

being a early mustang fanatic, i have here a book and it says that the stang was introduced in 1964 1/2
so a 63 would be a thing indeed

[FS211]

being a early mustang fanatic, i have here a book and it says that the stang was introduced in 1964 1/2
so a 63 would be a thing indeed

it may in-fact be a '66, I think my chevy truck may be '63

[swheels]

That's looking real good.But with the clip on's on the top like that.I think the front might be a little to low????

[FS211]

That's looking real good.But with the clip on's on the top like that.I think the front might be a little to low????

i was planning on putting on the tires that would have a higher profile and lift the bike up a bit aswell? i dunno, your einstein compared to me Mr.S

-Pics of fairings/fenders painted and drying, last two pics show them with 3 decent coats of clear.

[Niusiic[latvia]]

Wow. White looks really nice!

[swheels]

i was planning on putting on the tires that would have a higher profile and lift the bike up a bit aswell? i dunno, your einstein compared to me Mr.S

-Pics of fairings/fenders painted and drying, last two pics show them with 3 decent coats of clear.LOL no Einstein here.LOL I think just the opposite simple.With the taller tire and eyeballin how far the forks are up through the triples.I'd say it will put back to or a little less than the stock ride height. I don't know what type of riding you plan on doing.I was thinking that it might present a problem on tight turns,and that could be frustrating as heck.You couldn't fit those clip ons underneath the top triple?

To be honest also i like the way the look on top of the triple.

[FiveStarSky]

well, its either the front end pointing down a little, or the rider hunching over more. Either way, one of them is gonna have to move 2" or so.

Nice car btw.

[FS211]

LOL no Einstein here.LOL I think just the opposite simple.With the taller tire and eyeballin how far the forks are up through the triples.I'd say it will put back to or a little less than the stock ride height. I don't know what type of riding you plan on doing.I was thinking that it might present a problem on tight turns,and that could be frustrating as heck.You couldn't fit those clip ons underneath the top triple?

To be honest also i like the way the look on top of the triple.

Of course i could fit them under, thats what i will end up doing i presume. the only problem i have with them under the top triple tree is that they dont allow me to turn as much if i have the same angle on the bars (since they will hit the tank sooner), but ill figure something out.

__________________________________________________ ______________
- Im going to slap the stock 110 in their for now so the bike is useable
- Who's going to scratch their freshly painted framing putting the engine in? NOT ME!
- Put on stock pipe and a 22mm mikuni i had around.
- Set tank and tail on top of bike to get a look at it.
- Painted the tail gills/vents with plasti-dip undercoat lol

[briansX19haulsass]

whats with the stock engine dude???

[FS211]

whats with the stock engine dude???

until i upgrade rear shock, front shocks, some good tires, brakes, rear sets/pegs.... i do not plan on upgrading the engine, why would i need to?
like the great man says rock2 "without control, power is USELESS"


-going to mount the plastics on the bike just to see how it will look when it is all done.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

i got some gutter guard and did the 2 side scoops, then painted it

[FS211]

blitz, that looks great. i may just have to jack that idea and use it.

-mounted the bodywork to see how it looks

[briansX19haulsass]

kinda looks like my and kennys

[FS211]

kinda looks like my and kennys

certainly has the same color scheme

[SoPackedCustoms]

that was a fast build

[FS211]

that was a fast build

I've just scratched the surface.

[K-Pac]

Is that a slick on the rear tire?

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

no his bike is a 15 and the other white bikes are 19 and 18
i think it looks fine
its hard to keep a white bike nice, mine has gone through heck but it still looks ok cause im always cleaning it off
dr dro, copy anything you want, thats why i give ideas, maybe youll come up with something sweeter
on my 15, the lower panels are cut out at the bottom, so i have two separate pieces, its ok bc both sides have 4 mount points, and allows easy oil access
i wanted to do that with the 18 but the side would only have 3 mount points and that wouldnt work good, so thats why the aluminum was made

[FS211]

no his bike is a 15 and the other white bikes are 19 and 18
i think it looks fine
its hard to keep a white bike nice, mine has gone through heck but it still looks ok cause im always cleaning it off
dr dro, copy anything you want, thats why i give ideas, maybe youll come up with something sweeter
on my 15, the lower panels are cut out at the bottom, so i have two separate pieces, its ok bc both sides have 4 mount points, and allows easy oil access
i wanted to do that with the 18 but the side would only have 3 mount points and that wouldnt work good, so thats why the aluminum was made

i wish i could cut out some aluminum ones or out of some sheet metal.

its definitely going to be a pain in the ass to keep clean

[Ghost Rider]

definitely looks good man. Im kinda confused as to why the front wheel wasnt painted though:dunno:

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

i use NU-Finish, its in a orange bottle, to keep it clean
worst case is some white-out to hit spots
i like my black bike, a magic marker will hide all the nicks
you can make the panels
go to the hardware store, find the aluminum sheets
get one a good size, mine was like 25 bux
lay your body work on it and trace it out, or make a paper template of the body panel
account for edge bending and tabs and stuff, take your time, if you mess up, you havent hurt anything
gameplan is the key

[FS211]

definitely looks good man. Im kinda confused as to why the front wheel wasnt painted though:dunno:

-trying to decide if either to paint them black or white so i painted the back rim black to get a look at it, i think i may go with both rims black.


i use NU-Finish, its in a orange bottle, to keep it clean
worst case is some white-out to hit spots
i like my black bike, a magic marker will hide all the nicks
you can make the panels
go to the hardware store, find the aluminum sheets
get one a good size, mine was like 25 bux
lay your body work on it and trace it out, or make a paper template of the body panel
account for edge bending and tabs and stuff, take your time, if you mess up, you havent hurt anything
gameplan is the key

thanks for the tips +1 rep

[FS211]

opinions on the EVOS /YX 140cc Engine please

[JR]

thats the one brian has, and his bike hits 80, also comes with a IRK which i like, but some people dont, just depends if your a neighborhood cruiser or racer, overall its a great engine, how much you lookin to spend on an engine?

[FS211]

thats the one brian has, and his bike hits 80, also comes with a IRK which i like, but some people dont, just depends if your a neighborhood cruiser or racer, overall its a great engine, how much you lookin to spend on an engine?

Im going to mainly track it but undoubtably there will be neighborhood riding going on.

[JR]

well if your going to race then just tell them that you want a regular flywheel instead, i know vince at tbolt will do that for you

[FS211]

well if your going to race then just tell them that you want a regular flywheel instead, i know vince at tbolt will do that for you

why would it be so bad to get quicker revs on the track?
especially since it doesnt run lights and i dont need them.

[JR]

cause it takes away all of your low end, and if its a track with lots of turns, then your gonna be struggling

[FS211]

should i go with the Piranha 150cc (Daytona Type) instead ?
i just want the strongest most reliable 140-160cc motor i can possibly find, opinions?

[FiveStarSky]

should i go with the Piranha 150cc (Daytona Type) instead ?
i just want the strongest most reliable 140-160cc motor i can possibly find, opinions?

cant beat a jap motor

[FS211]

cant beat a jap motor

cant beat a jap bike either, ive been looking at this 04 NSR that is local to me and the guy wants $1250, its super crip and clean never raced only ridden around the block he says, and the stock tires supposedly still have 95+ thread left.

what do you think? should I reach in my pocket and buy the nsr to leave it stock until i finish my x build, just because its a deal, its valued at nearly double the price on kbb....
OR should i just dump a lot of money into the x build instead.

[The Nutty Professor]

Of course I'm going to say stay with the Mid Bike. Anybody can go the easy route of the NSR only the truly adventurous roll and stay with a Mid. The NSR is easier up to a point. When you find out you want to go 4 stroke then you find out the Mid was the best choice. You will be adding all and I mean all the same stuff but at a higher cost on the NSR plus you have to either buy motor mounts from someone who has already developed them like Fire or work it out yourself.

NSR/YSR builds I have seen fall into every catagory you'll see with a Mid. Re-enforcing the frames and swingarms. Changing out swingarms and forks. Upgrading brakes and motors. So what's different? The Mid can be done at half or less the price and if done with a little common sense or research better. The only things I see in the NSR/YSR favor is they are slightly larger and for bigger guys they might be the better choice. But when I'm riding I don't notice. Hell on my pocket bike I didn't notice until I stopped.

[FiveStarSky]

cant beat a jap bike either, ive been looking at this 04 NSR that is local to me and the guy wants $1250, its super crip and clean never raced only ridden around the block he says, and the stock tires supposedly still have 95+ thread left.

what do you think? should I reach in my pocket and buy the nsr to leave it stock until i finish my x build, just because its a deal, its valued at nearly double the price on kbb....
OR should i just dump a lot of money into the x build instead.

if i had the cash, i would take it. Ive seen some seriously good riders on them, and they are wickedly fast. probably wont be quick out the gate, but once you get some seat time, those things are nearly untouchable. Even the guys i race with, some put their NSR's against 65-80cc tards and still run a damn good race with them. and they make great endurance bikes. True parts will cost more, but parts well worht the money. Out of the crate, those things are ready to go. all you need is a few sprockets and your set for a full season of raceing. For me, once i got my YSR, i dont think i could ever go back to fixing up an x to race. so much more reliable, better built, and better set up for raceing.

[briansX19haulsass]

get the same setup i got i have only had 1 problem with the motor and i ride it REALLYYYY hard and it is really reliable and deffinetily has the power to keep the front wheel up in 2nd and pull really hard in the straghts
It is a KRP yx 140cc with an IRK and an oko carb with all the other little goodies that come with it as well pick it up at tboltusa.comthumbsup2

or Kenny (X7rocks) is parting out his bike and he has a 146cc that is pretty powerful aswell

[FiveStarSky]

imo, it depends on what you want to do. If your raceing, and are allowed to have a 140+ motor and be competetive in your class, than thats fine. But the org. i run with is very strict, and having an xbike would require some serious $$$ to be competitive. I think my org. has people with deeper pockets than most mini race groups.

[The Nutty Professor]

imo, it depends on what you want to do. If your raceing, and are allowed to have a 140+ motor and be competetive in your class, than thats fine. But the org. i run with is very strict, and having an xbike would require some serious $$$ to be competitive. I think my org. has people with deeper pockets than most mini race groups.

You just justified what I said...seriously deep pockets. So with that you can put more into the Mid for less...meaning more power for less money thinking_smilie or is my math off. Five you seem hell-bent to believe the Japanese bikes are the be all and end all? They ain't. Yes good out of the box but when you start modifications is when they start to lose the luster. I never dealt with Chinese stuff until the Mid Bikes so Japanese was all I knew except for the occasional Ducati or BMW. And the Ducati's (I can't believe I'm saying this) weren't much better in build quality than some of the Chinese stuff made now. 2 smoke is quickly fading to the 4 winds so 4 stroke is it. Go expensive with Japan if you want and don't say we didn't tell you when you start getting walked by guys riding Chinese equipment not just because it's cheaper but because it was cheap enough for them to experiment with and find more power without worrying about blowing up a very expensive motor. soap_box

[FiveStarSky]

Five you seem hell-bent to believe the Japanese bikes are the be all and end all? They ain't. Yes good out of the box but when you start modifications is when they start to lose the luster. I never dealt with Chinese stuff until the Mid Bikes so Japanese was all I knew except for the occasional Ducati or BMW. And the Ducati's (I can't believe I'm saying this) weren't much better in build quality than some of the Chinese stuff made now. 2 smoke is quickly fading to the 4 winds so 4 stroke is it. Go expensive with Japan if you want and don't say we didn't tell you when you start getting walked by guys riding Chinese equipment not just because it's cheaper but because it was cheap enough for them to experiment with and find more power without worrying about blowing up a very expensive motor. soap_box

I'm not hell bent, (if i could have XMR's 110cc tracker, i would take it) and i do agree, that for the average rider 4 stroke would probably be better off. Sure the chinese bikes are cheaper, but from what ive seen, it takes alot of work to get a chinese bike to hang with the tards. (including a 135cc pit that had every bolt on goodie you could have on the thing) I talked a good while with the guy who owned that, and he said it was his first racer, but later moved up on to jap bikes, and only uses his pit for the F6 novice. class (135 and under) while he uses his kawasaki for the F7 pro. he says he can hang in the novice on the pit, but dosnet dare put it up agaisnt the pro F6 class. and he is a very talented rider. I'm not even sure XMR could catch some of the guys in TMGP, we got people doing low 40 sec laps on a track just under a mile, with only 1 straight, they still average out close to 40mph, and that is freakin fast.

But what it really comes down to is this:

its cheap to race, exspensive to win. no matter if your running china/jap/euro bikes.

EDIT: about the ducati's, never buy one that was made on a monday or friday.

[briansX19haulsass]

you could make a mid bike with the works dude like look at VIR you cant say those are not fast bike and you see metra-kits and NSRs and YSRs being passed up by a modded up midbike. Its about running good sprockets,tires shock and engines when it comes done to things to mod on a track bike.

[FiveStarSky]

you could make a mid bike with the works dude like look at VIR you cant say those are not fast bike and you see metra-kits and NSRs and YSRs being passed up by a modded up midbike. Its about running good sprockets,tires shock and engines when it comes done to things to mod on a track bike.

they are pretty quick, and the metra's and nsr/ysr's depend on the tracks, tight tracks i can see them getting smoked by smaller bikes, but most metra/nsr/ysr's run on full sized tracks. same with tmgp, the faster taller bikes (xr 100's in particular) smoke up the straights, but are a little too tall to take some of the corners as fast as the smaller bikes. But put them together on a full sized track, and the xr's would take em.

The track in my town is so tight, i'm sure a euro PB could pass up an x bike, super tight turns on it, and probably wouldnt get out of 2nd gear on it.

[briansX19haulsass]

so get what you think is the best but imo a mid bike is the best because they arent to small and arent to big.

[FS211]

Thanks to everyone for their opinion, not that i do not want to hear more opinions, but these are my opinions so far.

The NSR is a great bike (ive never ridden one) but from the obvious,
-Its a honda which means its a higher grade built bike.
-You don't have to replace every single nut and bolt like on the chinobike, the quality is undoubtably superior.
-It has a real metal fuel cell not a plastic tupperware to hold the fuel for gods sake.
-The 12inch wheels are defiantly a plus.
-Dunlop replacement tires are incredibly cheaper than xbike tire replacements.
-With the exception of safety wire it is literally TRACK READY
- i could always drop a 4stroker, even a pitbike engine would fit even though the XR engine would be a better route.

-in the end it would be a blast to have a 2 and 4 stroke (Xbike aswell as the NSR)


Not that i am hating on the xbike, i am still going to build my x15 to track it regardless of what it is sharing the garage with.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

if i could have a honda, id like a nsf 100
buildem all dro, its all good
if you cant ride it tho it dont matter what it is
them people aint superman, they can be beat, it will just take some time to get your skills and (ballz)up
racing is mental too

[FS211]

if i could have a honda, id like a nsf 100
buildem all dro, its all good
if you cant ride it tho it dont matter what it is
them people aint superman, they can be beat, it will just take some time to get your skills and (ballz)up
racing is mental too

Thanks for the positive input.

[FS211]

new dilemma with tracking the X-bike

http://www.flamra.com/classes.htm
the link above shows the classes that are in the Florida Mini RoadRacing Association

These are the classes i could manage to run the Xbike in

Formula 1
2 strokes water cooled up to 50cc,
2 stroke air cooled up to 60cc
4 stroke air cooled up to 112cc.
Both Kids Expert and Formula 1 will be on the track concurrently. Examples: NSR50, KLX110

Formula 2 sponsored by
2 strokes up to 65cc,
4 strokes up to 125cc
Under superbike rules. Bikes may have unlimited engine mods but must not exceed max displacement. Examples: KX65, Thumpstar 125

GP 85
2 strokes up to 85cc.
4 strokes air-cooled four up to 230cc.
Under superbike rules. Examples: RM85, CRF230

Thumper 150
4 stroke water-cooled up to150cc
4 stroke air-cooled up to 230cc.
Under superbike rules. Unlimited engine modifications, but must not exceed maximum displacement. Examples: CRF150R, CRF230

-Basically i can run the 110cc engine in the formula 1 class which i could also run the NSR if i end up purchasing.
-the dilemma really lies in that i expected to drop a 140-160cc engine, but to actually be competitive in a class it looks like i will have to hold off at a 125cc and race F2.
(not that i'm going out there trying to win and not to have fun, but i cant match up against the slowest crf230 lol)

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

well id be in that hard class too, and i wouldnt expect to win, but id be happy with kickin at least one azz
doubt there would be many 230s out there
F2 and a 65cc seem to be the easy route

[FS211]

well id be in that hard class too, and i wouldnt expect to win, but id be happy with kickin at least one azz
doubt there would be many 230s out there
F2 and a 65cc seem to be the easy route

i feel you on just going out there to kick atleast one ass.

by f2 and a 65cc are you refering to the 65cc 2 stroke as in if I were to get the honda nsr?

i could always race 2 different classes, one with the x and on with the jap
but that could get a little confusing 10 and 12" wheels

[FiveStarSky]

thats why i went the YSR route over the X's. a ysr is alot faster than a stock 110 xbike, and i dont really have the know to do internal work on a motor.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

dro, i ment if you had a 65cc and raced in the f2 class, that would be your best shot at kickin butt, the 65s are fast against a 125 4T
5*, nobody is going to be stock, so its pointless to hope for it, a modded ysr is not the 110cc midbike killer you think it is, if the 110 is modded as well
if you come to the track with anything less than the max mods and lots of talent then just come for a good time and experience cuz some kids ride like others play their xbox, all the time
i learned that i suck but i have the potential to be ok so thats why im still racing, plus i got a few names on the 'asses to kick' list lol boxing11

[The Nutty Professor]

Ain't that the damn truth! I haven't really done wheel to wheel in so long who knows. Yeah a little playing around but that's it. I'm thinking about going back to a 1:1 for everyday. I have to travel I-95 sometimes so a Mid isn't a option. That alone will get me back a lot of lost skills but that last bite is going to be earned on the track. And a Mid is my preferred weapon. I can take anybody with the same skill level and a slight horsepower advantage...why? Cause I'm just a little crazier crazy_smilie

[swheels]

should i go with the Piranha 150cc (Daytona Type) instead ?
i just want the strongest most reliable 140-160cc motor i can possibly find, opinions?Won't do anything for you if your gonna race road course with stock suspension.

cant beat a jap bike either, ive been looking at this 04 NSR that is local to me and the guy wants $1250, its super crip and clean never raced only ridden around the block he says, and the stock tires supposedly still have 95+ thread left.

what do you think? should I reach in my pocket and buy the nsr to leave it stock until i finish my x build, just because its a deal, its valued at nearly double the price on kbb....
OR should i just dump a lot of money into the x build instead.How would you feel if your jap bike got passed by a Chinese scooter.Going around you on the outside at that?????

if i had the cash, i would take it. Ive seen some seriously good riders on them, and they are wickedly fast. probably wont be quick out the gate, but once you get some seat time, those things are nearly untouchable. Even the guys i race with, some put their NSR's against 65-80cc tards and still run a damn good race with them. and they make great endurance bikes. True parts will cost more, but parts well worht the money. Out of the crate, those things are ready to go. all you need is a few sprockets and your set for a full season of raceing. For me, once i got my YSR, i dont think i could ever go back to fixing up an x to race. so much more reliable, better built, and better set up for raceing.Tha's your problem your looking to spend more money instead of fixing what you got.So it seems you would rather have a whole stable of bikes that would look nice.But get eaten alive on the track??????

imo, it depends on what you want to do. If your raceing, and are allowed to have a 140+ motor and be competetive in your class, than thats fine. But the org. i run with is very strict, and having an xbike would require some serious $$$ to be competitive. I think my org. has people with deeper pockets than most mini race groups.It would require some serious dollars to make an xbike competitive.IF YOUR NOT CRAFTY ENOUGH and would rather have a bigger motor than have the proper things you need to get around the track.IE SUSPENSION!!!!!

they are pretty quick, and the metra's and nsr/ysr's depend on the tracks, tight tracks i can see them getting smoked by smaller bikes, but most metra/nsr/ysr's run on full sized tracks. same with tmgp, the faster taller bikes (xr 100's in particular) smoke up the straights, but are a little too tall to take some of the corners as fast as the smaller bikes. But put them together on a full sized track, and the xr's would take em.

The track in my town is so tight, i'm sure a euro PB could pass up an x bike, super tight turns on it, and probably wouldnt get out of 2nd gear on it.True to an extent.Th sandyhook track is definitly(should)favor the pocketbikes more.
thats why i went the YSR route over the X's. a ysr is alot faster than a stock 110 xbike, and i dont really have the know to do internal work on a motor.What you should have said was they are faster than YOUR BIKE...I swear if you get beat by a stock ysr then something is definitly wrong.LOL

Thanks to everyone for their opinion, not that i do not want to hear more opinions, but these are my opinions so far.

The NSR is a great bike (ive never ridden one) but from the obvious,
-Its a honda which means its a higher grade built bike.
-You don't have to replace every single nut and bolt like on the chinobike, the quality is undoubtably superior.
-It has a real metal fuel cell not a plastic tupperware to hold the fuel for gods sake.
-The 12inch wheels are defiantly a plus.
-Dunlop replacement tires are incredibly cheaper than xbike tire replacements.
-With the exception of safety wire it is literally TRACK READY
- i could always drop a 4stroker, even a pitbike engine would fit even though the XR engine would be a better route.

-in the end it would be a blast to have a 2 and 4 stroke (Xbike aswell as the NSR)


Not that i am hating on the xbike, i am still going to build my x15 to track it regardless of what it is sharing the garage with.What dunlop tires are you looking at that's cheaper. In all honesty if you don't have the resources to get the xbike up to speed.(not just the motor)Then don't kid yourself.I would take the easier route in your case.Rather than you making a tragedy out of your xbike at the track experience.
Here's an eye opener for you. If you look at all the people that complained about how they got their ARSES KICKED on an xbike. Take look at how their bike is or was setup in their threads on any forum.Then look at the threads with the guys that can actually tell you what an xbike is capable of.The funny thing is in those threads you will see what they all mainly have in comon.Is DRUM ROLL PLEASE..............SUSPENSION!!!!!!!

Remember it's not what you got.It's what you can do with it.If your crafty enough you can make any bike work for ya.Going from bike to bike isn't gonna get you in the winners circle.Just a constant reminder of your failure and confusions.Oh and a smaller wallet.LOL

5star man your bike must have been jack to all hell. Heres i pic of my tires i road on at the practice and the race to determine grid position at vir sat.PLus manage to put the yrs's down a lap.

[swheels]

Oh yeah pics Do ya wanna see the front tire lol.bluelaugh

Am i an insane rider???LOL hell to the NO!!!!!bluelaugh But i can get around a track a little bit.So that's why i don't understand the stock ysr theory.thinking_smilie I would hve still had that tire and using it.If one the guys from XMR didn't take it and through it in the trash.To me that was a good slick to practice on.bangheadangry My front tt dunlops are somewhat shredded on the side right down to the top of the lettering on the sides of the tire.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

so Swheels is really adamant about suspension, i saw that tire in person, i just did a small headshake
i can say it made me faster
fast mids own the pb open class at the hook too

[The Nutty Professor]

Swheels is all about suspension because we both know that the Japanese bikes have a major advantage there. Closing that gap will put them on the trailer dollar for dollar. I have looked and read between the lines on some of their forums and the bottom line is some of those guys have spend big money on forks and shocks. Swheels is getting some of the same results for a fraction of the money. I have tried to follow his lead but lately the old noggin ain't doing so well :dunno: Doc I know this thread has strayed but I see this as a good debate on the merits of both type bikes. I can tell you this...most people go with the Japanese bikes because in the end it's easier to find those go-fast parts even if they destroy the wallet. With Mid's right now it's all about putting together the winning parts from a parts bin that no one has labeled.

[FS211]

Thanks everyone for chiming in again on the topic.

since i joined this site, i have obviously admire the work of people like Swheels, Blitz, Nutty, Shooter, 125ccCrazy, and more. and probably the most common thing in making the bikes go fast around the track as swheels had stated is the suspension.

If you read my thread from the beginning it states as it should, that my motive is to upgrade suspension/tires/ geometry of the bike BEFORE bigger engines, i did stray away a little at looking at some engines, but i will definantley upgrade suspension and everything else before i even think of more power.

and if i get the nsr, its not to shove the xbike to the back of the garage, its to shove the nsr to the back and leave it as is, while i master the xbikes flaws and get her up to par.

Thanks again

[swheels]

I just couldn't help it.I really at one time thought the stock ysr's were better.I almost bought one brandnew for 3k back in CT.Just imagine 3k in to a xbike. Now like i've said if you do a dollar to dollar comparison.A xbike will be unbeatable.thumbsup2

You know now that i think about it.I really don't have alot of money into my bike.I have a lot of tune up parts for it.But as the bike is, there's not much into it.I do have a ton of time and RD into it though. So if i took a good picture of my bike.Your gonna see 90% of it is from xbikes x1/x2,x7.Then the other would be mountain bike,pocket quad(1 piece) and a rear sprocket from a 110cc quad that i use from time to time.Plus i barely use my machines unless absolutely necessary.
I guess what i'm trying to say is you really don't need i a lot of money to make an xbike a fierce competitor on the track.thumbsup2
You just gotta put in the work and be very crafty. I might have to change the bikes name from dirty girl to recycle bike.thinking_smilie

[FiveStarSky]

Your Oil Cooler is on the way!

[FS211]

Your Oil Cooler is on the way!

lol...I never bought it from you, i wanted too, but you sold it to someone else

[SoPackedCustoms]

i bought it lol

[FiveStarSky]

wow i'm retarted.

[FS211]

should i paint the rims black or white?, i cant decide

[JR]

i would say black, you have enough white
or you could paint them black with a white pin strip

[chrisbombay]

I think the black rims would look nice with a chrome pin stripe on it, but thats just me. The white rims will get dirty quick. BTW the bike looks great thumbsup2

[The Nutty Professor]

Old school...go white.

[FiveStarSky]

ghost it out, or whatever you call the opposite of murdered out (i'm hip on my lingo yo!)

[The Nutty Professor]

Once you add a scheme to the white base you have, if you do, the white wheels will make the rest of the bike stand out, no doubt.

[K-Pac]

I kinda like the black style but for uniqueness I would go with the white since I've never seen a midbike with white rims. Or how about gold rims :bling2::bling2:

[The Nutty Professor]

Blitz has gold with accents.

[X7rocks]

when you say gold i think of a subaru setup either its blue with bronze type rims or white with bronze rims..either way looks pretty trick

[FS211]

if i could find some titanium/bronze color paint it would be on!

[rene13]

I hve white wheels with red reflective stripes around the rim

[FS211]

I hve white wheels with red reflective stripes around the rim

can you post a pic of that.





also i had some trouble bleeding the front brake today, it feels spongy, and the piston wont depress all the way out after it has been pressed.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

dro, for your bike i like the black, you already have the throttle and pegs white so thats enough
nutty, i repainted them red, just didnt fit the bike
if it comes in a can, you can paint your wheels with it
this is my gold

[The Nutty Professor]

if i could find some titanium/bronze color paint it would be on!


You'll have to use a automotive clear coat which you can find at most part store but I know where to find those colors. Go to a craft store like Michaels or Joanne crafts. They have weird colors and most metallics. I bought bronze, brass, and pewter for house projects. On metal stuff I heat baked the paint on and then used the auto clear. I think I wrote about it somewhere on here before. I call it flash painting. Get the part nice and hot. Not red hot or the paint itself just burns off. But hot and when the spray hit the part the solvent immediately evaporates and the paint sticks like nobodies business. All I do for prep is clean the part with soap and water and then if I think about it alcohol but that step was only for parts that I thought needed a little extra. So far I found I can do it with any paint. And I can reheat the part even after paint has been applied but you have to be more careful. The first one was a towel rack. I thought with wet towels and daily use the paint would probably come off. Nope, it's on there good. I did my exhaust with ceramic paint so it will stand up better under the heat wrap.

[FS211]

so i just took the bike out for a 20-25min run, i seem to be done for now with the carb tuning, i could really feel how lousy the front forks are off the bat, the first 1/3" of travel is pretty jerky and tends to get stuck and not rise back up. also the rear suspension not really keeping the back wheel down even on the least cambering turns.
thinking_smilie im going to be cooking something up for the rear shock, possibly some linkage similar to a 1:1 bike, basically what S is doing.
Another problem i encountered was while i was taking a sweeping left turn, toward the middle of the turn i could feel gas running down my bike and onto my sock front the inside of the fairing in the mean time the carb kind of sputtered quite a bit.
How could i arrange the vent hoses off of the carb so that i will not starve the engine or leak any gas in those situations.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

i took the vent hoses off, they only cause problems
i lean mine way over and it dont leak, check your lines and stuff

[The Nutty Professor]

I think his float is sticking but not stuck. And to run on some tracks you'll need a catch can for the carb. Even if they overlook it if you leak they'll run you off until you come back with one.

[FS211]

so a catch can for the carb is necessary? cant i just plug up all those damn vents in the carb lol

also last night i was able to get stopping power into my brake system, i tried to bleed it again after i ran the bike, but i lost all pressure and was not able to attain it again, i even had the master cylinder under the caliper with the bleeder valve as the highest point (so that all the air bubbles would rise up and out? atleast i assumed) i wasnt able to get the brake to work again, the master cylinder piston is finally fully depressing but no i dont get pressure?
i dont know whats going on, i know how to blead brakes, but for some reason something is strange, i cant seem to build any pressure.

[The Nutty Professor]

These system will hold air like nobodies business.

[Ghost Rider]

i would say black, you have enough white
or you could paint them black with a white pin strip

Black with a small white pinstripe would be perfectthumbsup2

[FS211]

where can i get custom brake hoses, like 10mm to 8mm's or 10mm to 6mm?
last place i called quoted me $106.72!!

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

easier to use a block, and just tap in the sizes you need, or get matching components to start (like bigger calipers)

[rene13]

where can i get custom brake hoses, like 10mm to 8mm's or 10mm to 6mm?
last place i called quoted me $106.72!!

To avoid the headache its better to go with bigger calipers.

[stuntnx7]

where can i get custom brake hoses, like 10mm to 8mm's or 10mm to 6mm?
last place i called quoted me $106.72!!




i got 2 front galpher lines for $90 shipped from hoheydesigns.com for my F2. I wouldnt spend anymore than that thumbsup2

[FS211]

Going to have to paint the bike banghead too much white in my garage

[FS211]

the shock on the nsr is height adjustable, and a soft/hard? adjjustment, also external gas charged
it measures about 8.8" eye-to-eye and its not fully raised. so basically it will fit the x15 pretty well, i will i guess attempt to buy a new rear shock for the nsr at a good price or find a replacement nsr shock and use it on the x-15. i will still use the 1:1 bike type linkage with the shock, very similar to swheels design.

[FS211]

the shock on the nsr is height adjustable, and a soft/hard? adjjustment, also external gas charged
it measures about 8.8" eye-to-eye and its not fully raised. so basically it will fit the x15 pretty well, i will i guess attempt to buy a new rear shock for the nsr at a good price or find a replacement nsr shock and use it on the x-15. i will still use the 1:1 bike type linkage with the shock, very similar to swheels design.


.... I cut some cassette holder brackets off of my crashed shifter kart chassis, im going to try to use them for my rear shock linkage, im going to try to have different mounting points on the top so if necessary i can change the angle of the shock if it proves promising results...
i may still search for another type of link for the bottom, but i will see what i can do with what i have.... there's still tons of little brackets/metal pieces accessible to use off of that chassis

[FiveStarSky]

just a heads up a NSR shock will run about $300 for a new one, i would try to do what swheels and others did, and adapt a pitbike shock to work.

[FS211]

just a heads up a NSR shock will run about $300 for a new one, i would try to do what swheels and others did, and adapt a pitbike shock to work.

i am aware of this lol, hopefully i can find a used one or find a good deal on a new one for the nsr and use the stock on the X

[FS211]

update

-vee rubber slicks front/rear
-yoshi perches
-front brake caliper


working on rear shock, and rear brake.....

[X7rocks]

omg i am missing those rims and tires already :( let me know how they ride doctor!

[The Nutty Professor]

Next time X7 you know where to work from the ground up.

[FS211]

thinking about engines....
looking at the Pitster Pro 125/140 or the GPX 125/140/146 (lI would imagine the GPX 125to146cc is better than 140 and 150??)
GPX 140 (http://www.xmrpros.com/store/product-info.php?pid165.html) , or should I step up on the initial purchase and go with one of these 150's?

GPX 150 (http://www.xmrpros.com/store/product-info.php?pid167.html) <---- rock2

Piranha 150 (http://tboltusa.com/store/piranha-150-start-enginebr-fits-pit-bikes-and-other-minis-p-2477.html)

Pitster Pro 155 (http://tboltusa.com/store/pitster-pro-155-engine-brfits-pit-bikes-and-other-minis-p-522.html)

the only thing these all have in common is the 5 plate clutch.

[FS211]

found a Rock Shox that will fit the linkage I'm working on, hopefully it comes in soon for a mock up.

[FS211]

thinking about engines....
looking at the Pitster Pro 125/140 or the GPX 125/140/146 (lI would imagine the GPX 125to146cc is better than 140 and 150??)
GPX 140 (http://www.xmrpros.com/store/product-info.php?pid165.html) , or should I step up on the initial purchase and go with one of these 150's?

GPX 150 (http://www.xmrpros.com/store/product-info.php?pid167.html) <---- rock2

Piranha 150 (http://tboltusa.com/store/piranha-150-start-enginebr-fits-pit-bikes-and-other-minis-p-2477.html)

Pitster Pro 155 (http://tboltusa.com/store/pitster-pro-155-engine-brfits-pit-bikes-and-other-minis-p-522.html)

the only thing these all have in common is the 5 plate clutch.

another note, I would either have to stay under 125cc to remain in the f2 class, or go in the gp85 class (230cc max)

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

i had the 125 then built the 146
now i have the 160
they wont wanna race you anyway so id say just get the bigger motor but the 146 was a beast and i have all the parts if your interested
either way you will be gripping the bars to keep from flying off

[FS211]

^Thanks for the input Blitz.



x15 shock vs NSR shock
I tried putting the nsr shock into the x-15 but it was not a direct fit because the width of the shock near the eyelets, I was able to put it on but not bolt it up and take a seat/bounce on it ; but the shock is day and night compared to the one on the bike, I can make a bracket but I will have a hard time finding an nsr shock for a decent price.


Also I finally made a rough draft bracket to hold on the rear brake that i got for the bike, then i put a coat of paint on it and the swing arm, I may just keep that bracket because it holds up well, its just a bit on the ugly side haha.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

wont the caliper scrape in a lean?
nice shock

[FS211]

wont the caliper scrape in a lean?
nice shock

very very very close, comes within less than an inch when on the edge of the tire. If it does scrape during testing i can flip the bracket upside down and mount on the top, I just though it looked cooler on the bottom.

or

i could use the smaller rotor 160mm instead of the 180mm i have on, then i can put the move the brake in that extra 20mm (.787 of an inch). we will see but until then i still need to take care of a few things on the bike. (SUSPENSION rock2)

[Shooter]

Hmmm...... could always slot some holes in that bracket to give it that brass knuckles look thinking_smilie :dunno:

[drgnprelude]

Or take it to a machine shop or metal fab place with a dimple die and lose weight while adding strength
Just a thought