View Full Version : X12 Rebirth From Trash
RomanianRacer
12-21-2009, 10:28 PM
Okay guys, I've been waiting for a while now to start a thread on my bike. I would have done it sooner but I didn't have any source of money coming in(job). I'm expecting to get my job in 1-2 weeks from now, I just turned 16 today and can't stand the sight of walking in my garage and seeing my x12 in pieces lying around. I should be getting a job at the local theatre, either that or my plan B-MCDONALDS! I know not such a hot job. So I'm thinking of bringing it back. and I abused the hell out of it when it did work. Constantly rode it off-road , I know bad on the frame banghead. Pieces would fall of it at least once a month. My brother practically ended its life, lol. Low sided it on the road and I think a flip here and there. Screwed up all my plastics, levers broke, throttle trashed, gauges crushed. Then electrical problems coming into the works. Just a mess!
As of right now I've trashed mostly anything thats plastic. I have a 110cc motor that needs new gaskets, rims, brakes, frame, so basically a rolling frame. I don't know the direction I'm going to head with it, either turn it into a full race bike and it becomes an investment or I just get it back running with a decent motor upgrade and make sure it looks good. I'm wanting to learn how to stunt on it.
So pictures below. 1st one is before the crash and was still rideable, rest are teardown pics. These are a little old. about 2 months. The frame and wheels have been cleaned and most of the rust gone. I'm going to go for a black/red scheme here. I don't want a boring looking bike.
RomanianRacer
12-21-2009, 10:38 PM
Tomorrow I'm hoping to sand down the frame and swinger. How does that procedure go again. I'll have to look through some threads, if no one posts back about that.
Then try to order a few parts after first weeks pay, so don't expect an update soon.
I need some ideas on what this bike should look like. Right now I'm stuck between getting the x-18 body or the x-7 49cc body.
I also came up with a few mods I could do to the frame and swing-arm to strengthen them. I would need to go and rent a 220v MIG Welder from Home Depot to do it though, as my welder in my garage is a flux core welder and is crap. Man I wish I still had shop class at school banghead! I got pics below. Red is where I can add some tubing to strengthen the frame, blue arrows means part is cut-off, and yellow circles is for strengthening the motor mounts, although not sure if that's really necessary?
You guys think I should do it, or not?
I'm not sure whether the x-18 frame is stronger than the x-12?
Oh yea, I know it was a dirty boy! Also those pegs are crap, I'm trying to get them off but the bolts are stuck.
swheels
12-21-2009, 11:16 PM
My advice to you,is to try and talk to XMR about that chassis. They can help you get pointed in the right direction.Cz you have to do some serious work to that chassis to get it in trackbike shape.thumbsup2 Especially if you plan on putting a big hp motor in it. Here i'll help with the first most important mod. Make sure the motor sprocket shaft and pivot point on the swingarm is inline. On those chassis's they are WAAAAAAYYYYYY off.:yup:
RomanianRacer
12-21-2009, 11:19 PM
yea thats on my list of things to do is make sure its inline. I hope I'm not going to have the move the engine mounts around.
Also do the XMR guys still cruise around midbikenation these days? Or should I contact them by email.
I was also thinking of boxing in the frame?
rene13
12-22-2009, 02:30 PM
I have an X-12 tank/tail piece for sale new no cracks.IYI
RomanianRacer
12-22-2009, 02:51 PM
nah, sorry. I'm going either x18 or x7 look.
The Nutty Professor
12-22-2009, 03:18 PM
Go X7 the plastic is made better. Hell look at what "S" has put his through and "It Lives!!!" MUUUHAHAHA!!!!! bluelaugh
FiveStarSky
12-22-2009, 03:50 PM
Go X7 the plastic is made better. Hell look at what "S" has put his through and "It Lives!!!" MUUUHAHAHA!!!!! bluelaugh
very true, the only weak parts are the windscreen head light area, but i'm sure if you make a upper stay it will hold. mine went down a few times and no major damage (other than the windscreen/nose snapping)
i'm kinda sad to see your doing that though, i love the x12 bodies.
Blitz$M.Inc.$
12-22-2009, 04:05 PM
the x7 bodies are still 'widely' available
RomanianRacer
12-22-2009, 05:05 PM
very true, the only weak parts are the windscreen head light area, but i'm sure if you make a upper stay it will hold. mine went down a few times and no major damage (other than the windscreen/nose snapping)
i'm kinda sad to see your doing that though, i love the x12 bodies.
The x12 did look pretty cool, mostly the front and sides, I didn't like the tank and seat part- too roundish, needed some rigid lines in the bodywork. Take a look for your self, gas tank area has a lot of jb weld holding it together. I did a crappy job painting and sanding it down so you can tell where it is. One whole side broke in half in a fall. Oh and yes thats foil acting as the cap for the gas tank lol
Also the x12 had fragile plastic. There are tons of cracks in my body, why do you think I only carried the seat and tank on it.
the x7 bodies are still 'widely' available
Yea I know pocketbikeparts.com still carries whole body kits for the x7.
My bike went through a beating, and its not gonna look like it did before.
briansX19haulsass
12-22-2009, 05:21 PM
find the previous owner and slap him for me lolthumbsup2
Blitz$M.Inc.$
12-22-2009, 08:10 PM
when i had the x6, i was shopping for a new bike
i found a place that had bikes, i sat on the x12 and got right back off, i hated it, the foot pegs are ridiculous
i eventually got the x15 after much research
some pix of sweet 12s
RomanianRacer
12-22-2009, 10:42 PM
find the previous owner and slap him for me lolthumbsup2
I have been the only owner for the past 5 years. Man thats a long time! Anyways I was a little kid and was doing stupid things with it.banghead
when i had the x6, i was shopping for a new bike
i found a place that had bikes, i sat on the x12 and got right back off, i hated it, the foot pegs are ridiculous
i eventually got the x15 after much research
some pix of sweet 12s
Yea the footpegs are like standing on bricks. Talk about dragging pegs when leaning.bluelaugh
I wish I would know what the other bikes feel like. The only other bike was a cateye I sat on in an Asian Mall. That was an original size pocketbike. The x12 has a high butt and low front. It feels really weird and would stress out my wrists a few times.
Blitz$M.Inc.$
12-23-2009, 03:12 AM
here is how you set up a 12 to race
this doug@xmrs bike
they have a vid up of him straight raping folks with this bike, it had a 141 lifan in it
swheels
12-23-2009, 09:34 AM
Yeah the guys at XMR sure know how to get them motors Hualin. I'd really hate on them if they end up getting a dyno.I would love to get my hans on a dyno.Infact maybe i should start saving for one instead of moving to the Va.thinking_smilie
RomanianRacer
12-23-2009, 01:59 PM
here is how you set up a 12 to race
this doug@xmrs bike
they have a vid up of him straight raping folks with this bike, it had a 141 lifan in it
Thats pretty nice. I'm probably gonna go bigger on the engine though-I want one of them 184cc Big Bores with the v2 race heads or the 4v head. Some good power right there.
Yeah the guys at XMR sure know how to get them motors Hualin. I'd really hate on them if they end up getting a dyno.I would love to get my hans on a dyno.Infact maybe i should start saving for one instead of moving to the Va.thinking_smilie
A dyno, how much are those things like $30k or more? I would only see a dyno handy if you own a shop and can make a profit off it with the locals' cars.
Gonna go and sand down my frame and swinger.
The Nutty Professor
12-23-2009, 03:30 PM
RR just my opinion but there are very few of the X12 body bikes still out there so that makes them stand out. I'd go for that and max it out! X7-DONE! X18-DONE! X12-Not DONE nearly as much or as well. There's only one that was the shizzle and Blitz showed us that one! If I could get a complete X12 body I'd put together a X15 with a X12 body and roll-out!!!!
Blitz$M.Inc.$
12-23-2009, 06:16 PM
i would love to put a x6 body on an x18 like this
my nephew has his still and he just got a full time girl.....
it may be my time to strike thinking_smilie
RomanianRacer
12-23-2009, 06:57 PM
i would love to put a x6 body on an x18 like this
my nephew has his still and he just got a full time girl.....
it may be my time to strike thinking_smilie
Damn! That's an x6 body, thats pretty nice. What kind of paint job did he use? Rattlecans?
RR just my opinion but there are very few of the X12 body bikes still out there so that makes them stand out. I'd go for that and max it out! X7-DONE! X18-DONE! X12-Not DONE nearly as much or as well. There's only one that was the shizzle and Blitz showed us that one! If I could get a complete X12 body I'd put together a X15 with a X12 body and roll-out!!!!
Well I'm still opened to ideas. I haven't bought anything so far. I'm still making plans on how I'd like the bike to be when finished. If I could find a different seat/tank fairing and keep the rest of the x12 body fairings, then maybe. Like the x15 seat and tank or x7. The seat and tank on the x12 was too roundish, its stuck up in the back higher than the front, might be the frames fault though. Just the position you were in, you had to have your back straight. I wanna hunch over and hug the bike when I ride.
The Nutty Professor
12-24-2009, 06:03 AM
I believe that was a XMR customer bike right Blitz? As for having a 'sit-up-and-beg' type position on the X12 I think that has more to do with the pegs than the seat and tank. The X12 puts a lot of weight on your arms so you have a lot of weight on the front end. Moving the seat pan back and the pegs forward will get you what you're looking for. Or move the seat back and the pegs up either way the seat has to go back. I think changing the seat and leaving it were it is you're going to have the same result?
RomanianRacer
12-26-2009, 06:48 PM
you guys think I should paint the frame myself, or just have get it powdercoated for some $$$ and have it look pro?
What about anodizing vs powdercoating?
Oh I'm thinking of going with a nice candy red color(google it) for the frame and metallic black for the swinger and rims.
I'm going for this kind of paint scheme (pictures)
1st-Candy Red Frame
2nd-Metallic Black Swing-Arm
3,4,5-Overall Bike look I want similar to
Blitz$M.Inc.$
12-26-2009, 07:01 PM
i really really wanted to have mine stripped and chrome dipped
bad i tell ya, but i settled for just spraying the frame with some 'chrome' paint that really looked like silver
ya nutt, its 'jackie'
RomanianRacer
12-26-2009, 11:31 PM
that looks really good blitz. Your lucky your got one of the best frames, doesn't have those down tube bars like the newer x19 frames.
What you guys think with those pics I posted up?
Niusiic[latvia]
12-27-2009, 06:00 AM
that looks really good blitz. Your lucky your got one of the best frames, doesn't have those down tube bars like the newer x19 frames.
What you guys think with those pics I posted up?
Well, get the swinger bright green and it will perfect :)
The Nutty Professor
12-27-2009, 07:54 AM
One thing first. You can't get your frame anodized. You can't anodize steel. Powder coating can be a little on the pricey side but if you have the money go for it it's great stuff. There are two things I found that hold up as frame paint. The first is Duplicolor bedliner and enamel paint. The bedliner has one draw back...it comes it you can have what ever color you want...as long as the color is black (Old Ford joke). As for the enamel you have more choices but they're still limited unless you have a well supplied hardware store that has a great selection. Lowes and Home Depot don't. I've thought about using a white enamel and trying to lay one of the candy colors on top of it. **Warning** don't try this on anything you're working on first!!!! The two might react badly and wrinkle! Try it on a sample first. I did it on the PW80 with black and it worked but each color is a little different sooo....Just a thought.
stuntnx7
12-27-2009, 08:16 AM
I wouldnt paint candy anything myself bcuz it takes way more ability than just spaying the paint on for it to look any good at all. That being said powdercoat is the only way to go on metal. Its quick and tough so you get your stuff back in a couple hours if the PC guy is your buddy bluelaugh
FiveStarSky
12-27-2009, 10:29 AM
i know its not what you want to hear, but i would hold off on painting anything untill you get a riding bike. Your just gonna waste time and $ if you paint your frame, then decide you want to weld in some brackets or something. PC is super nice, but a local place said it would be about $200 for my ysr frame and swinger, so you would probably be somewehre in that ballpark, but you can get pretty much any color you want with PC.
RomanianRacer
12-27-2009, 01:15 PM
i know its not what you want to hear, but i would hold off on painting anything untill you get a riding bike. Your just gonna waste time and $ if you paint your frame, then decide you want to weld in some brackets or something. PC is super nice, but a local place said it would be about $200 for my ysr frame and swinger, so you would probably be somewehre in that ballpark, but you can get pretty much any color you want with PC.
oh yea, I'm just coming up with an idea of how the bike is going to look. Painting is probably going to be the last piece of the puzzle. I want make sure everything clears that I buy and I might reinforce the swinger and frame. I found a place near me that rents out welders, as I don't want to dish out a little over a grand for a new welder and this is probably one of the only projects thats gonna require good welding. I might make a strong work table in my garage also. Cause working on a cheap plastic folding long table aint working with motor parts sitting on it. I hate working on the floor, even more when the garage is 20 degrees cold.
Powdercoating looks like there is a good chance it might happen, so should I even bother trying to strip the paint off or sand it down? Cause the powdercoaters I know sand blast the parts down to prep the metal before throwing on the powder and cooking it.
FiveStarSky
12-27-2009, 01:18 PM
if they blast and prep everything i would leave it like it is unless there are some seg. areas of rust that need attending to.
RomanianRacer
12-27-2009, 01:22 PM
yea ill look over for any cracks also.
RomanianRacer
12-29-2009, 09:43 PM
Nutty been thinking of what you've been saying about keeping the x12 fairings to keep the bike alive in the mid bike scene, well I think I might just do. I've been looking at that all black one with the side stripe going down on one side and it looks really nice. I might go with the same paint scheme I was talking about before. One thing I want to change is the seat/tank fairing, its all one fairing. I don't like that piece. I remember someone on here with a really built up drag x12 and he used a different tank and maybe a different seat. I was thinking of taking a seat and tank from an x6 or x8. An XMR bike has a set of these fairings ill post up.I'll post pics of what I'm thinking
1st pic- The nice ass x12 I have a picture of on my computer
2nd and 3rd pic- The XMR bike with I think is the x6 or x8 fairings. I want the seat and tank fairing.
4th pic-Look I'm going for, looks like a KTM motorcycle. Don't remember which model though. Except not the front, want the ducati look.
You guys see how it would look like the 3rd pic if I put the x6/x8 tank and seat and use the rest of the x12 fairings with the paint scheme I was thinking about in the previous post?
RomanianRacer
12-29-2009, 09:44 PM
whoops! The ktm bike I forgot to resize so it made it a thumbnail not an image.
RomanianRacer
12-29-2009, 09:48 PM
I noticed that the xmr bike also uses the x12 frame! so looks like not to hard to get those fairings up.
Also on the nice x12 pic, he flipped the swinger. You guys think I should do that? Blitz did that too with his bike.
The Nutty Professor
12-30-2009, 06:45 AM
I think two major parts of the X12 look is the seat and the exhaust pipe. 125cc Crazy reworked both and kept the look. But if you insist on going a different way I'll buy your stock exhaust pipe off you. Cheap of course moon1 I would say cut the seat right where it meets the tank and push the seat back and bolt it down were it feels comfortable for you then fiberglass in a extension from the tank to the old seat. They don't have to be one piece just something to fill it in. Then make a new longer seat pad.
RomanianRacer
12-30-2009, 06:56 AM
I think two major parts of the X12 look is the seat and the exhaust pipe. 125cc Crazy reworked both and kept the look. But if you insist on going a different way I'll buy your stock exhaust pipe off you. Cheap of course moon1 I would say cut the seat right where it meets the tank and push the seat back and bolt it down were it feels comfortable for you then fiberglass in a extension from the tank to the old seat. They don't have to be one piece just something to fill it in. Then make a new longer seat pad.
Yea I'm going kind of with a different direction, just trying a different look than everyones. I wish I knew how to mold with clay and make my own body. That would be awesome! I think the main problem was those crappy stock pegs I had. They dragged so low to the ground! I might get 1:1 size rearsets and mount up. After all they are made for NORMAL size feet and not mini size.
About the exhaust-I'm pretty sure I still got it, gotta hunt through my garage a little cause its probably in a box sumwhere. Oh I know I don't have that shiny 'fake' chrome plate that went on the top of the muffler though. Other than that the pipe should be good. How much you willing to pay for it? Where can I find out shipping costs?thinking_smilie
The Nutty Professor
12-30-2009, 07:19 AM
PM sent.
RomanianRacer
01-03-2010, 02:49 AM
plans have changed, going a different direction. I've been thinking about this for a while now. I'm going full stunter with my mid. Trying to keep the build price low-under $1500 I'm hoping. Starting on the mid would help me when I pick up my 450 motard this summer.
Main Concerns:
Gearing(42 tooth rear? or 50 region?)
Torque
Brakes(might try the dual brakes saga blitz posted)
Suspension(Mostly rear shock), don't know what I'm going to do about the forks
Lights(going to be stunting with a few people at night)thumbsup2
Clutch(STRONG ONE!)
So I've been thinking about the engine setup I'd be running-either the gpx125 or gpx140 base, the 140 costs only like $50 more than the 125. Is the trans different between the two? Cause if I get the 125 I got a trans setup I'd buy thats strong. I for sure want the 30/23.5 big valve head they got for both motors. Might go with the 146 bbk and very high compression piston if the 125. Need a torquey monster motor. Also the new BILLET clutch kit tbolt usa has I for sure want to pick up. Sprockets can be made at sprocket specialists or pbu has some. Need the 6 spoke rims if I run duals up front. I want a rear hand brake setup, custom crash cage, or a few sliders at the least. Going streetfighter look, seat and tank only with a pit bike headlight kit.
Now the questions-
-What mods available for the forks?
-Rear shock? Need a cheap one-$200, maybe the one from XMR?
-CAMS- what cam for the 30/23.5 head? is the tb300 the only one that fits it?
-Should I run dirt bike bars?
Any of you stunters out there, guys tell my your setup or throw up a few ideas.
RomanianRacer
01-03-2010, 02:52 AM
whos bike is in the pic? found on planet minis, my setup will look similar to it.
Oh Nutty?! Look at the fairing hes running and guess what I got in my garage?bluelaugh
swheels
01-03-2010, 06:04 AM
That was x7rocks old x18 with the x12 seat and tank section.
Niusiic[latvia]
01-03-2010, 07:08 AM
Well, for rear hand brake you can use mtb brakes. I'd say avid juicy 7 would be ok! Or something from HOPE production! You can make a bracket to make it fit so there would be both foot and hand rear brake.
Yes, run db bars, they are more comfy for stunting IMO
RomanianRacer
01-03-2010, 07:18 AM
how much would it cost me? Cause I'm looking at a Rekluse setup here where you can use both the footbrake and a left side brake for the rear, also has a mini clutch perch included that mounts on the master for the left side rear. Pretty cool setup actually. Problem is I don't have a rear master cylinder thats for footbrake the x12 had both brakes as levers, and no clutch-had a semi-auto 110. then I don't really need new brakes? thinking_smilieAt least the setup I have, just need a clutch perch assembly! Sweet!
I might try new calipers, and bigger rotors made for the 6 spoke rims. I might try duals in the front also.
Niusiic[latvia]
01-03-2010, 07:34 AM
how much would it cost me? Cause I'm looking at a Rekluse setup here where you can use both the footbrake and a left side brake for the rear, also has a mini clutch perch included that mounts on the master for the left side rear. Pretty cool setup actually. Problem is I don't have a rear master cylinder thats for footbrake the x12 had both brakes as levers, and no clutch-had a semi-auto 110. then I don't really need new brakes? thinking_smilieAt least the setup I have, just need a clutch perch assembly! Sweet!
I might try new calipers, and bigger rotors made for the 6 spoke rims. I might try duals in the front also.
from about $100 - 300
HOPE is pricier
check http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/SearchResults.aspx?Search=avid+juicy+7
and
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/SearchResults.aspx?Search=hope
But you might have to mod them to fit on mid bikes brake rotor
Also, you can check both brakes on ebay
The Nutty Professor
01-03-2010, 09:04 AM
"S" and I both looked into using MTB brakes and I wouldn't wave_finger The rotors are half as thick meaning warping them is probably a fact of life with them. They are way to expensive to have to replace every week or month if they last even that long. Having them explode from excessive heat is also a possibility. I know someone out there will say they can't explode and you're right that's just what we say and they might as well have exploded considering the type failure you'll see. Shatter is probably a better description. Not pretty anyway you put it speechless33
Niusiic[latvia]
01-03-2010, 09:13 AM
"S" and I both looked into using MTB brakes and I wouldn't wave_finger The rotors are half as thick meaning warping them is probably a fact of life with them. They are way to expensive to have to replace every week or month if they last even that long. Having them explode from excessive heat is also a possibility. I know someone out there will say they can't explode and you're right that's just what we say and they might as well have exploded considering the type failure you'll see. Shatter is probably a better description. Not pretty anyway you put it speechless33
Well, some pitbikers are using them. Well, I don't know about avid juicy 7, but HOPE yes, they're using them. And what about downhill, they use juicy 7 and other brakes and nothing major about heating. I used to have hayes nine, I didn't have any problems with them.
And it isn't track racing so, no real heating. I know - stunters use brakes alot but I don't thing that they would overheat! And no, those rotors don't warp so easy if you don't them warp with your hands or hammer. And BTW, you can modifie them to fit on mid bike's brake rotors! ;) just a fact!
The Nutty Professor
01-03-2010, 12:41 PM
Are you sure they're MTB parts and not something made by those companies for Pit Bikes?
FiveStarSky
01-03-2010, 12:47 PM
oh they will overheat and start to slip, even my ysr rotor (which are larger and thicker than the mids) will heat up and start to slip when i get the endo's rolling.
but when i had my x7 it made a great little stunter, kinda wish i still had it
briansX19haulsass
01-03-2010, 12:56 PM
plans have changed, going a different direction. I've been thinking about this for a while now. I'm going full stunter with my mid. Trying to keep the build price low-under $1500 I'm hoping. Starting on the mid would help me when I pick up my 450 motard this summer.
Main Concerns:
Gearing(42 tooth rear? or 50 region?)
Torque
Brakes(might try the dual brakes saga blitz posted)
Suspension(Mostly rear shock), don't know what I'm going to do about the forks
Lights(going to be stunting with a few people at night)thumbsup2
Clutch(STRONG ONE!)
So I've been thinking about the engine setup I'd be running-either the gpx125 or gpx140 base, the 140 costs only like $50 more than the 125. Is the trans different between the two? Cause if I get the 125 I got a trans setup I'd buy thats strong. I for sure want the 30/23.5 big valve head they got for both motors. Might go with the 146 bbk and very high compression piston if the 125. Need a torquey monster motor. Also the new BILLET clutch kit tbolt usa has I for sure want to pick up. Sprockets can be made at sprocket specialists or pbu has some. Need the 6 spoke rims if I run duals up front. I want a rear hand brake setup, custom crash cage, or a few sliders at the least. Going streetfighter look, seat and tank only with a pit bike headlight kit.
Now the questions-
-What mods available for the forks?
-Rear shock? Need a cheap one-$200, maybe the one from XMR?
-CAMS- what cam for the 30/23.5 head? is the tb300 the only one that fits it?
-Should I run dirt bike bars?
Any of you stunters out there, guys tell my your setup or throw up a few ideas.
You do have a very good setup idea as far as motor goes but mostly top end. You want low end torque so... The stock BVH with minor porting is gonna be the torques. If you really want low end the 160cc bbk is known for really dealiviering down low and only is like 20 or 30 more dollars then the 146cc bbk.
You should use a TB300 cam either way you go its a good overall cam.
FiveStarSky
01-03-2010, 01:29 PM
if you want some frame sliders, i picked up some good ones off an ebay seller who sells them for $20, comes with an extra incase you go down and eat one up. i would def. fiberglass the tank/tail, that plastic will get eat up, rear axle pegs, maybe some new clip-ons that bite better than the stock ones, take off anything that will get smashed up or is unessisary
RomanianRacer
01-03-2010, 01:30 PM
You do have a very good setup idea as far as motor goes but mostly top end. You want low end torque so... The stock BVH with minor porting is gonna be the torques. If you really want low end the 160cc bbk is known for really dealiviering down low and only is like 20 or 30 more dollars then the 146cc bbk.
You should use a TB300 cam either way you go its a good overall cam.
Ya I was thinking of cutting out the race head for that and the reason its not in the budget I want. I might go for the big bore 160 KIT-that way I get everything I need in one thing, but one thing I remember is blitz complaining about the gasket that comes with the 160 bbk, in your thread brian.
FiveStarSky
01-03-2010, 01:33 PM
just a note, its not all about power, just check all the guys stunting crf-50's
RomanianRacer
01-03-2010, 01:38 PM
if you want some frame sliders, i picked up some good ones off an ebay seller who sells them for $20, comes with an extra incase you go down and eat one up. i would def. fiberglass the tank/tail, that plastic will get eat up, rear axle pegs, maybe some new clip-ons that bite better than the stock ones, take off anything that will get smashed up or is unessisary
Still open to frame sliders, was thinking of getting some made for the 50's and just mod them to fit. Mostly the axle sliders/pegs is what I want and I can get some skateboard wheels for the frame. I'm for sure strengthening the plastic, if I can get a welder soon, then I'll make up a crash cage, kinda like what unproracer did with his bike. My frame was very bare to start with when I still rode it.
I still want this bike to look good, not junk. If I have money left over when I'm done ordering everything needed, I might still consider getting some parts powder coated-frame, swinger, wheels, triple trees.
What do you guys think of leds on these bikes, like a show bike has?
briansX19haulsass
01-03-2010, 01:46 PM
Romain racer Blitz is right about the risk of it happening but there are many people who have ran the kit for a while and have had 0 issues with it.
Or you can just do what I am doing this very moment and toss the steel gasket that comes with it and get a copper one (much less chance of any gasket issues because copper changes with the tempurture, much more realiable seal.) It will really improve any chance of any gasket issures.
RomanianRacer
01-03-2010, 01:51 PM
aint that custom? If they got like a copper gasket roll at an auto shop, where you cut out your own, I might then go and do that.
Have you played with the 160 bbk yet? Like ridden your bike with it in? if you have you notice a big gain over the stock 140? Also what head you running the big valve or that race head with the 30mm intake and 23.5 exhaust? Our setups are looking similar!bluelaugh
briansX19haulsass
01-03-2010, 02:10 PM
I havent riden it yet but to answer the other questions
I am having the copper head gasket cuatom made
I am having the BVH pretty much turned into the Race head 30mm/23.5 valves, stiffer valve springs, ported and polished. But the unique thing is the head shaving Iam having done as well with the copper gasket.
At the moment my setup is
160cc BBK
Custom fabricated Head(It is a race head that is shaved)
TB 300 cam
TB lightened Oil slinger
TB 6 Plate clutch
TB high comp piston
TB 28mm carb set up (30mm intake)
inner rotor kit
billet oil cooler
head breather kit
big bore exhaust pipe
Stock 140cc is 11 HP Vince is guessing it will be in the ball park of 16-18HP So yes it will be a HUGE difference over the stock 140cc motor.
Niusiic[latvia]
01-03-2010, 02:19 PM
Are you sure they're MTB parts and not something made by those companies for Pit Bikes?
Yes, sir, i am
Niusiic[latvia]
01-03-2010, 02:21 PM
just a note, its not all about power, just check all the guys stunting crf-50's
well, 50's are making some good power though
RomanianRacer
03-10-2010, 02:20 AM
UPDATE:
I've been super busy with school, working out, and just life in general, I hardly get any time to think about the bike in the garage. Since the weather is getting better, I've been more in the garage and outside. I live in washington, it rains constantly!
I got a little work done with the x12 seat and tank. Basically filled a bunch of cracks in and feels like one piece again. I sanded down around the cracks, then got some good quality hot glue(not that craft crap you get from craft/art stores) and filled the cracks up. Sanded down the extra glue on the edges and made it level with the rest of the plastic. I sanded down the rest of the whole fairing with 80 grit sandpaper. I found some 200 and I think 300 or 400. I'll use those and then get it washed and primed for paint.
Also I had a huge chunk gone from the rear, broke off in a box it was sitting in. I came up with an idea and cut it to flow with the body. Makes it look sharper in the back and doesn't look like it was made for that stock big muffler box that use to sit under the plastic. I sanded the edges with 80 grit and gonna try later this week with a 200 grit to get a smoother edge. I still need to do the the other side of it, the side that wasn't broken. I'm going to mark it all up so it matches up and its all flush and looks Gsmokin_pimp
Pic's below and I had to use my camera phone on my Blackberry, couldn't find the digital camera.
RomanianRacer
03-10-2010, 02:23 AM
the hot glue was actually melting some of the plastic in between the cracks so I know I got a good bond going. You can see some of the paint was smeared around because of the heat from the glue gun.
RomanianRacer
03-10-2010, 02:27 AM
I need some donor plastic though for the gas tank where you fill it. There are small chunks missing. I think I might use one of my side panels, the one thats broken in half.
Blitz$M.Inc.$
03-10-2010, 03:29 AM
i like plastic fiberglass bondo and mesh
others have used plastic weld, like a two part epoxy, ive used that too and its good also
i like the new edge you made, match it up with the other side
not really a fan of 80 grit on flat pieces, the plastic is thin enough
RomanianRacer
03-10-2010, 03:47 AM
i like plastic fiberglass bondo and mesh
others have used plastic weld, like a two part epoxy, ive used that too and its good also
i like the new edge you made, match it up with the other side
not really a fan of 80 grit on flat pieces, the plastic is thin enough
thanks, I think its pretty good considering it was all free hand, no marking or lines of where to cut.
Yea I only used a light sand, mostly used the 80 grit to level the glue with the rest of the plastic, so there isn't a bump when I paint it. I got 200 or 300 grit and will use that and then bump up to 600 with the primer and wetsand with 800 after the primer then paint. How many coats of paint did you do on your body?
Blitz$M.Inc.$
03-10-2010, 06:19 AM
i normally do 2-3, just enough to change the color evenly, then i clear it, which may be 3-4 coats
MotorHeadMike
03-10-2010, 07:17 AM
Looking good!. You certainly have your work cut out for you with those panels. I was looking at a junked up x6 yesterday and was thinking how I could fix all the busted fairings on it.
Ive used the plastic weld on water softner tanks (house) with not much luck. I think if you rough up the underside and slap some fiberglass mesh/resin in there it will really give you some support and strength. They do sell repiar kits for 15$ at home depot/auto zone. Just make sure you wear some face masks cause that stuff stinks like the devil
Keep up the good work!
RomanianRacer
03-10-2010, 03:29 PM
Looking good!. You certainly have your work cut out for you with those panels. I was looking at a junked up x6 yesterday and was thinking how I could fix all the busted fairings on it.
Ive used the plastic weld on water softner tanks (house) with not much luck. I think if you rough up the underside and slap some fiberglass mesh/resin in there it will really give you some support and strength. They do sell repiar kits for 15$ at home depot/auto zone. Just make sure you wear some face masks cause that stuff stinks like the devil
Keep up the good work!
Thanks Man! I'm for sure going to use some kind of fiberglass mesh under the fairing. The x12's plastic is brittle. I'm also going to put some rubber o rings between where the plastic meets the metal on the frame. I think that should help a little cause I notice a lot of little tiny stress cracks around the mounting holes for the seat and gas tank.
I just saw an ad on craigslist for a mint condition x6 bike, bike was CLEAN! He wanted $350. If I had the $$$ I'd offer him up to $150 for the fairings alone. I love the x6 bike fairings. You can still pickup the seat and tank for a reasonable price at pocketbikeparts.com.
Tank Fairing-http://www.pocketbikeparts.com/product_p/x6bp302091.htm
Seat Fairing-http://www.pocketbikeparts.com/product_p/x6bp302090.htm
Blitz$M.Inc.$
03-10-2010, 03:53 PM
many other x6 parts
http://www.fancyscooters.com/item00545-Zida-50cc-Ninja-815B-4-stroke-CVT-superbike.html
FiveStarSky
03-10-2010, 04:30 PM
yeah the x6 tail is very NSF lookin, would be neat to have on a bigger mid.
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