x15 oil capacity

[x15clc]

How much oil should I put on my X15? Ive put 1 quart already but still doesnt feel right. The engine still kinda shaky.. sounds like grinding inside.. I still have the stock 110cc engine.. need help.. I thought I have fixed it before but no..

[drgnprelude]

one quart is too much if u drain the oil and it is hot and the back of the bike is propped up and leaning a little to the right and it had been draining for a hour lol u should at most be 3/4 of a quart to fill it u should have a dipstick with a crosshatch area where u fill it to show the full mark

vIbration/shakey could be loose motor mount bolts

Grinding could be the chain tension
Like I said could be

[x15clc]

one quart is too much if u drain the oil and it is hot and the back of the bike is propped up and leaning a little to the right and it had been draining for a hour lol u should at most be 3/4 of a quart to fill it u should have a dipstick with a crosshatch area where u fill it to show the full mark

vIbration/shakey could be loose motor mount bolts

Grinding could be the chain tension
Like I said could be

It feels like somethings wrong goin on with the transmission coz i noticed that the previous owner had lack of oil in it and befire i put the new oil in, I had a flashlight and had a peek by the oil inlet and i noticed that there were black burned stuff in there. when I put the new oil, it cleaned up the black burned.

[drgnprelude]

It was brob burnt oil (varnish or sludge get the motor hot and drain it while its hot and then do it one more time to make sure u flushed all that crap out it might help
At least that's the first thing I would try

[x15clc]

It was brob burnt oil (varnish or sludge get the motor hot and drain it while its hot and then do it one more time to make sure u flushed all that crap out it might help
At least that's the first thing I would try

Would you help me out with the carb too.. what are the turns for the screws? I really want to get this bike running so bad..

[drgnprelude]

The one with the spring is for idle the other is for a/f mixture the on on the lowest part of the carb is the bowl drain

[x15clc]

The one with the spring is for idle the other is for a/f mixture the on on the lowest part of the carb is the bowl drain

Yeah i pretty much know what theyre for but could you give me an idea how many turns for each screws..

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

try 2.5 turns from all the way in

[x15clc]

try 2.5 turns from all the way in

Im guessing thats for the idle screw.. how bout the other screw?

[drgnprelude]

No that's for the factory a/f mixture setting put it like he said than adjust from there have u taken the carb apart recently or changed anything

Why do u think u have a prob with the carb exactly??

[x15clc]

No that's for the factory a/f mixture setting put it like he said than adjust from there have u taken the carb apart recently or changed anything

Why do u think u have a prob with the carb exactly??

Coz when I start the bike, it starts from a low idle then gradually it revs higher.. it kinda scares outta me coz i dont want to end up breaking anything in the engine and end up not running at all.. lol help me out get this bike ti run properly..bows_smilie

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

sounds like you just need tweaking
start the bike and let it run for 10 min anyway you can
then let it idle and turn your idle spring screw to a spot that is about 1500 rpm...done, it should start good from there, you might need the choke if its cold
the air/fuel is 2.5 turns out

[x15clc]

sounds like you just need tweaking
start the bike and let it run for 10 min anyway you can
then let it idle and turn your idle spring screw to a spot that is about 1500 rpm...done, it should start good from there, you might need the choke if its cold
the air/fuel is 2.5 turns out

Hopefully its nothing internal.. coz I still wanna enjoy that 110 before upgrading to a better motor in the future.. ill let you know what will happen when i do that.. its still too early in the mornin to wake up the neighbors lol..

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

my upgrade path was i did all the other things first that add safety or performance, then there was nothing left to do but motor swap

so, get it running, start replacing the critical hardware (2 motor mount bolts, sprocket bolts, things that will kill you if they broke on you at 55mph)
then small improvements, redo the fuel line, tires, chain, fork work...
unless your a balla, then do it all lol

[x15clc]

my upgrade path was i did all the other things first that add safety or performance, then there was nothing left to do but motor swap

so, get it running, start replacing the critical hardware (2 motor mount bolts, sprocket bolts, things that will kill you if they broke on you at 55mph)
then small improvements, redo the fuel line, tires, chain, fork work...
unless your a balla, then do it all lol

Its just gonna be a cruise bike so do changing the fork and chain really necessary?

As long as i make it run smoothly im good, as I have no problem with bodyworks and I know just basic electrical..

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

you dont have to change the forks, just do some work to them, usually just add a few tblsp of 90w oil helps alot
sit on your bike then stand up and push the front end down as hard as you can, if it bottoms out then add oil evenly to each one till it doesnt bottom out
the stock chain is 'ok' but when you see a good 420 chain you will know why its better/safer

[x15clc]

you dont have to change the forks, just do some work to them, usually just add a few tblsp of 90w oil helps alot
sit on your bike then stand up and push the front end down as hard as you can, if it bottoms out then add oil evenly to each one till it doesnt bottom out
the stock chain is 'ok' but when you see a good 420 chain you will know why its better/safer

How do you add oil to the forks? coz like what you said, it does seem to bottom out.. Ive been hearing about them years ago but never bother to add it up to my knowledge before.. where do you also buy the oil from?

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

90w oil at auto part store
take forks off bike, test each one with your body weight (ive seen them be different)
loosen top chrome nut, back it out slow, its under spring load be careful
take out the spring and dump out the oil, put in 1/4oz of 90w or a few tspns, put the cap back on and test, add till its good and do the same for the other side

[x15clc]

Holy crap, I tried to fix my bike today and when I thought i have the carb set good already, I tried to start the bike in choke. It will idle good in choke but once I push it back down, it revs so fast to almost its peak like crazy and scary.. damn I thought I was gonna blow up the engine..

What could be wrong with my bike? Please help me out with my prob.

Also I tried to tweak it again to see if I could fix it, but it got worse coz when I start it with even the choke up.. it will slowly revs itself again.. man Im kinda losing my hope to fix this carb..

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

ok, if it starts fine on choke (lets be sure we know what is on/off for the choke) on would be pulled up and off is pushed down
ok , starts fine on choke = restricted air flow to help start with minimal gas, turn choke off and its too much air flow for the amount of gas, id guess there is some crud or a blocked jet in your cabr
you can take it apart and clean it but i always end up recommending a carb cause they suc so bad
a good one for the stock motor would be a 22mm mikuni, which incidently was my very first upgrade

[x15clc]

ok, if it starts fine on choke (lets be sure we know what is on/off for the choke) on would be pulled up and off is pushed down
ok , starts fine on choke = restricted air flow to help start with minimal gas, turn choke off and its too much air flow for the amount of gas, id guess there is some crud or a blocked jet in your cabr
you can take it apart and clean it but i always end up recommending a carb cause they suc so bad
a good one for the stock motor would be a 22mm mikuni, which incidently was my very first upgrade

Yes, when its on choke(pulled up) it would idle fine, once I push it back it rapidly revs up like crazy.. How much opening should the intake opens when the choke is down(off)? Cause it feels like somethings wrong with it..

I was thinking to just get a new one.. Ok any place to get a the cheapest mikuni carb you recommended? Thisll be the first things im gonna buy for my bike carb and the billet throttle..

[x15clc]

Man where did the people around here go? Need your help please

[drgnprelude]

Def get a carb cheapest place is prob eBay the choke restricts air and adds fuel so when u open the choke it is letting in more air allowing it to rev higher because the carb is dumping fuel that's the only reason I can think of is the carb is def messed up I saw on eBay like 40 for the carb and 20 to ship so ud save 5 bucks just get one from a reputable place so if there is any probs u won't have any issues returning ot or exchanging it tbolt got me mine within 3 days of ordering online and u can use your stock cable on it for now try disconnecting the cable from the carb and trying that first make sure that's not the prob if not get a new replacement for 25 bucks or a Mikuni that's all I can say about it I don't know why it would do that unless it was in front of me and I could take it apart

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

if your bike runs fine with the choke on, and revs up when you push it down, then your idle screw is too high, turn it counterclockwise to turn it down after you do the start on the choke
the choke doesnt effect the gas, only the air flow

[x15clc]

Def get a carb cheapest place is prob eBay the choke restricts air and adds fuel so when u open the choke it is letting in more air allowing it to rev higher because the carb is dumping fuel that's the only reason I can think of is the carb is def messed up I saw on eBay like 40 for the carb and 20 to ship so ud save 5 bucks just get one from a reputable place so if there is any probs u won't have any issues returning ot or exchanging it tbolt got me mine within 3 days of ordering online and u can use your stock cable on it for now try disconnecting the cable from the carb and trying that first make sure that's not the prob if not get a new replacement for 25 bucks or a Mikuni that's all I can say about it I don't know why it would do that unless it was in front of me and I could take it apart

Whats a good size of carb should i get for the stock 110 motor? Should I also replace the manifold? I found some on ebay for like $20+$5 shipping.. are those any good? The work on my bike is kinda slow coz its snow season here at my place.. tight on money too coz of bills

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

my personal rule of thumb is keep the dimentions as close as possible
on the 110 it has a 23mm intake valve, the best carb for that would be a 22-24mm, also the intake should be close to the same size, the stock one is a little too small, and then finally the exhaust pipe should at least be as big as the exhaust valve (20mm) but since its being pushed out i would suggest bigger
currently i have a 26mm carb, a 30mm intake and a 30mm intake valve, pipe im not sure but its big, i could use a bigger carb but so far its good

[x15clc]

I just noticed this morning that there is oil leaking from where the shifter shaft comes out.. how do you fix this? Any ideas or tutorials..

[drgnprelude]

22mm should be good just remember u get what u pay for I used my stock manifold and ported it with a dremel to match the carb output size and used a swivel mount adapter to change the angle that the intake bolts to the head for clearance issues and don't forget ur gonna need a new bigger inlet air filter as well

[x15clc]

22mm should be good just remember u get what u pay for I used my stock manifold and ported it with a dremel to match the carb output size and used a swivel mount adapter to change the angle that the intake bolts to the head for clearance issues and don't forget ur gonna need a new bigger inlet air filter as well

Is the gasket between the engine and manifold reusable? Where can I get it or how to make it? I wanted to port my manifold earlier but was worried I'd mess up the gasket and not have a replacement for it. Might cause air leak..

[drgnprelude]

The plastic one between the carb and intake should b reusable depends on how old /weathered it is the other is a paper gasket u can get them at pocketbikeparts.com or go to the local parts store and get a sheet of form a gasket paper and trace it out and make a bunch of them youself

[x15clc]

The plastic one between the carb and intake should b reusable depends on how old /weathered it is the other is a paper gasket u can get them at pocketbikeparts.com or go to the local parts store and get a sheet of form a gasket paper and trace it out and make a bunch of them youself

Actually I know a "classic way back in the southeast of using a folder sheet.. trace it the shape of the manifold's port then put gasket maker/adhesive.. same things as what you said..

[drgnprelude]

Lol I've done that stranded on the railroad tracks with my Suzuki ds 100 way back in the day lol all there was around at the time was a cvs so I bought a folder for like 20cents that thing was crazy it was my first bike I think I was 13ish at the time first thing I ever rode and the throttle was stuck wide open so I had to use the kill switch to run it lol work the switch to get it going the a quick switch when I went to shift I can't believe to this day I never stall or wrecked that thing even the first time on it on any motorbike for that it stayed that way for two years along with vise grips for a shifter that was some fun times LMAO but that only lasted a couple months with that gasket

[x15clc]

Geez the stock throttle grips on 15s really do suck bigtime.. found out that was the problem with my bike the whole time trying to figure it out in the carb all through the engine.. thinking it was mechanical. But damn the cable was just too short and got stuck inside the grip's housing.. gotta get that billet throttle blitz recommended ASAP