u need to adjust the cable adjustmen all the way out, and work it from there. it sounds like the clutch cable doesnt have enough tension on it
OKay, I took the engine off for painting the frame and engine, and I'm putting things back together now and I can't get the bike to change gears and put it in neutral. I have adjusted the clutch cable to both it's limited, one to the point it's always engaged without pulling the clutch lever, and the other where the clutch lever does nothing. I've rolled the bike back and forth turning the engine over to try and get it, and I've adjusted the foot lever....and I've tried to manually use the foot lever disconnected and operating it by hand. It's a brand new engine, stock 110 with about an hour of ride time. When I try to kick it over with the clutch handle pulled, it acts like i'm not holding the clutch handel and the bike jumps forward because it's still in gear. The only thing I can think of it to disconnect that spring on the engine where the clutch lever attaches to the cable and try to pull it up farther. It's late, so maybe I'll try that tomorrow. It did pop off when I took the cable off for painting, maybe I put it on wrong? Any sugestions?![]()
Last edited by narf44; 07-26-2010 at 09:06 PM.
u need to adjust the cable adjustmen all the way out, and work it from there. it sounds like the clutch cable doesnt have enough tension on it
"Speed Kills"
2009 USMGP Champion
check out my x15 rebuild thread
Repsol 4t 10w-40 Synthetic
X15 yx150cc, irk, oil cooler, klx110cc pipe, 26mm MOLKT carb, UNI Dual Foam Filter, fast ace shock, maxxi in the rear, and mb38 jetty in the front, and x19 plastics
I already did that, all the way out to the point that the clutch was engaged at all times and I could just roll the bike around in gear as if I had the clutch handle pulled.
something must have disconnected internally when I took the cable off where it attaches to the lever at the engine. Anyone know what happens when I take the clutch cover off?
sounds like you put the shifter linkage on upside down or something. Did you put a mark on the shifter fork and linkage so you could line them back up?
stunter!
You can't put the shifter linkage on upside down, and I disconnected it from the shifter foot lever and tried to manually shifter it with just the push rod and it does the same thing
sounds like you got a dud motor
"Speed Kills"
2009 USMGP Champion
check out my x15 rebuild thread
Repsol 4t 10w-40 Synthetic
X15 yx150cc, irk, oil cooler, klx110cc pipe, 26mm MOLKT carb, UNI Dual Foam Filter, fast ace shock, maxxi in the rear, and mb38 jetty in the front, and x19 plastics
but it was working before I took then engine out, nothing has changed. One more thing I thought of, I started taking the starter off a month ago, but noticed that it was connected to a chain, so I put it back on. The starter kicks over fine. No idea.
I didn't realy want to upgrade to the 140cc, well I did, I just don't want to spend another $400 on this project this year.
Last edited by narf44; 07-28-2010 at 07:46 PM.
look for a used motor on ebay, especially if your not lookin to spend the money look for a 125 or 140, that comes with the carb and and stuff
"Speed Kills"
2009 USMGP Champion
check out my x15 rebuild thread
Repsol 4t 10w-40 Synthetic
X15 yx150cc, irk, oil cooler, klx110cc pipe, 26mm MOLKT carb, UNI Dual Foam Filter, fast ace shock, maxxi in the rear, and mb38 jetty in the front, and x19 plastics
I got it out of gear and into neutral. I hooked up the battery and ran the starter for 10 seconds and then I was able to get it into other gears, who know what happened. I still wasn't able to start it up though. It has a brand new 22mm carb on it, so the adjustment is way off probably, but one other thing, when I went to just kick start it now, it doesn't feel like it has any compression. The only thing I could think of is because it only has about 1 hr of ride time, the ring hasn't set it yet and it has low compression. What size fuse do I need to put in the fuse holder? My bike doesn't like a screwdriver...it started to smoke...eekkk
um that means your clutch is still engaged if your not gettin any compression at all, especially if you put it in gear and it rolls around
"Speed Kills"
2009 USMGP Champion
check out my x15 rebuild thread
Repsol 4t 10w-40 Synthetic
X15 yx150cc, irk, oil cooler, klx110cc pipe, 26mm MOLKT carb, UNI Dual Foam Filter, fast ace shock, maxxi in the rear, and mb38 jetty in the front, and x19 plastics
um, no it doesn't. Compression has nothing to do with the clutch. Compression is how much air is being held off by the piston and ring. If I pulled in the clutch and tried to kick start it, it SHOULD still kick over and go...thud dud dud dud. If I have no compression, whether the clutch is pulled in or not, when I kick start it, it just kicks down super easy with no pressure and no thud dud dud dud.And I have the clutch adjusted so that when it's in gear it doesn't roll around, and when I pull the clutch in, it rolls around.
kk have fun
Last edited by Monster_Bike1780; 07-30-2010 at 03:55 PM.
"Speed Kills"
2009 USMGP Champion
check out my x15 rebuild thread
Repsol 4t 10w-40 Synthetic
X15 yx150cc, irk, oil cooler, klx110cc pipe, 26mm MOLKT carb, UNI Dual Foam Filter, fast ace shock, maxxi in the rear, and mb38 jetty in the front, and x19 plastics
i think if you pull the clutch in (disengauged) and kicked it, there would be very low resistance, it would spin easy
ive always started mine with the bike in neutral and the clutch engauged
Blitz's X15 - Ninja 110R aka Track Bike
yx 160cc, ork, 30mm intake, vm26mm mikuni, UNI filter, custom exhaust, big block cdi, nology coil and wire, NGK plug, 14/28 gearing, DID chain, maxxis/vee rubber race tires, ASV levers, billet throttle, fastace shock, S-Tech forks, dual caliper front brakes, http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=blitzminc
Disclaimer: Im usually right but i am, on occasion, a dum azz!!....believe at your own risk!
If you had gas in the cylinder you can wash the cylinder down(wash away the oil seal) and it will feel like no compression. 2 things, pull the spark plug, put the trans in neutral and turn the kick starter while looking in the sparkplug hole (Watch out for gas possibly spraying out). ENSURE the piston is moving, if it is going up and down, drop 2-3 drops of some kinda engine oil, car, bike, don't matter.
If it puts a bit more or feels more resistant when you kick it over you probably just washed the oil seal off the piston ring w/ gas, Disconnect and plug the fuel line, hold the throttle open and kick the crap out of it till it feel like its got compression again(need oil pressure up)
If it doesn't get better, the ring may of failed to seat properly. A compression test would be the best determining factor for this test, 160-190psi is good. A BRAND new piston/ring set SHOULD feel very stiff and resistance because its not worn to the shape/bore of the cylinder.
Piston don't move? Perhaps the whole clutch issue is related and the trans. is not transmitting the force to the piston. In which case you have issues inside the case, which would explain the clutch. It ran before? Idk what you could of done just reinstalling it that would cause that stuff to happen. Can you take off just the round cover of the clutch(side w/ the clutch cable) and see whats going on inside? If you can clutch it and the clutch disks move, its internal.
The passion is for smashin'!
OKay Monster_Bike1780, you where right. It was the clutch. Even with the clutch cable adjusted all the way down to it's minimums, the clutch was still just barely engaged. The wheel wouldn't turn, but it was enough to screw it up. I disconnected the clutch cable completely, and now it kicks over as normal. So to fix the problem, I had a old clutch handle from an old Yamaha 850 that I modified and as it now sits, it's not engaged unless I pull the handle in. Still haven't got it started yetbut i'll keep you updated...with questions.
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okay, now I'm having problems with the clutch cable and the clutch not fully disengaging when I'm riding it. It's like the cable is too short. I have it adjusted at the lever and in the middle of the cable all the way down to the shortest, and it's pulling the lever on the actual clutch up about 1/2". So it starts, but then when I try to get going it's like I have the clutch lever pulled 1/2 way in. I've tried a different clutch lever, that didn't help. Any suggestions? I could buy a new cable, but I guess I though the original would have worked.
X18, Custom body work, shaved tail light, head light, turn signals, molded tank, trimmed fairings, 22mm Mikuni Carb, Exhaust mod, Vee Rubber slicks, custom dog bone link rear suspension, Pitbike rear brake on front, spring preload adjusters on front forks
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